First I would like to thank you for taking interest in my project. Also for your time and expertise needed to help me resolve some of these issues.

I recently purchased the blazer from a family member who owned it new from the dealership and has kept it in the garage for most of its life. For the last few years they would only use it in the winter time when the cars couldn't get out.

I purchased a yellow top optima battery first. We crunk it got it out of the garage let it run a little. The radiator had a weak spot and blew. I moved it to a good workspot in the driveway then replaced the radiator, thermostat,lower radiator hose,heater core. First issues " parts store sold me a coolant sensor that is incorrect for this year. I'l
Add a picture. I figured the coolant sensor was on top by the thermostat housing. It was the only one that made sense as all part stores told me that was the right sensor and it was a two wire plug.

I have since then found that what I replaced was not the coolant sensor as it is a one pin located at the driver side of the motor on the front head. I also found one on the passenger side rear head that is also a one pin looks to be same type of sensor also.

Does anyone now what the two pin sensor beside the coolant vacuums sensor near the thermostat housing?

One big issue I was having trouble with after i replaced the cooling system was the blazer would not stay running more than a few seconds after cranking. I would have to keep my foot on it for 5 minutes or so to get it warm then it just ran sluggish. I was afraid to pull out in front of anyone as it took a while to get up to speed and if it wasnt warm enough it would stall out.

I started working on the choke issue. I ran carb cleaner thru the carb and on around it to clean it up. I found the choke plate stuck some linkage gummied up. I still found the choke plate to not be closing when cold cranking. I replaced the choke thermostat and now have it along with the fast idle plate doing there job corectly. At this point the truck cranks better runs with the choke plate and idle screw right. It is releasing the choke to fast before the engine is fully warm causing it to die. This is we're I am stuck with this issue. If I unplug the wire running to the thermostat it will crank and run fine warming up then I can plug it back in after warm and all is well. Does anyone know how I can fix This?

I have broke down to the valve covers as the drivers side was leaking oil. I found some build up on the valve covers and filling tube. I cleaned it all out along with the heads then replaced with cork gaskets from felpro. While I had everything broke down I replaced all the vacuum lines I could. I was going to replace the egr valve but was sold the wrong one. I then did the distribuor cap and button,new wires and plugs. I couldn't read the sticker well we're the timing was needed to be set but I'm fairly sure it said 12. When I went to time it I found the idle to be at around 800 850 as it was. It should be 700 with a.c. off. I moved it to 12 as it was around 7 and the motor sounded way better. The only problem is the rpm is higher than 700 it's around 1000 now. The truck hesitates at the lower rpm and runs and feels way better now. But it isn' right.it should be 12@700 and is not. Is this bad?

 

I would start by getting the correct manual.

Rockauto features the OEM Bishko manual. Well invested 80$.

More Information for BISHKO 6357

 

thanks it was actually 20 bucks. I went ahead and picked it up along with more parts