How do you adjust the valves on a 1995 Blazer? Haynes shows 1994 VIN Z adjustment like I've always known to adjust valves (zero lash then an additional 3/4 turn), but it also goes on to say:

I have 1995 VIN W. So how do I know which procedure the valves get adjusted? May be lack of sleep, but the book has me confused as to the correct procedure. Also, I don't think I have moly-base grease for lube. Is there a suitable replacement grease? Lithium spray grease work OK?

ETA- when I look in specs, it says: Rocker arm nuts (bolts on 2000 and later) 20 Ft-lbs

Oh, and I had another question. I got the heads back from the shop today. When they did the valve job, they disassembled the rockers from the heads and threw them into a box. I had labeled the push rods to reinstall them in their original positions. So what do I do now that the shop just threw the rocker arms into the box? Is it going to mess anything up with the rocker arms being in different positions than they were before??

My references show 18ftlbs for the rocker arm nuts on your engine.

Do the rockers look like the positive stop type or the floating type? Can you snap a picture?

And as far as the rocker order goes, that's pretty much shot now. I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just make sure they are clean.

Yeah, I'll have pics posted shortly...

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/681/head1i.jpg

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/2905/head2n.jpg

Those are positive stop rockers. About all you can do is pull them down till it hits the shoulder and then torque them to the recommended specs. They are non adjustable. The hydraulic lifters will set their own lash.

Another thing you can do is spray them with a light coating of lube. This prevents a dry start as the oil has to work its way thru the pushrods. Also pour oil on them before you put the valve covers on.

Torque them all with number 1 TDC or does that matter (no. 1 TDC is where it is sitting right now)?

It shouldn't matter what position the engine is in as they only go down so far then stop on those shoulders. Some of them will have some pressure and be a bit harder to bring down but its only spring pressure.

Thanks!

Yes, definitely the positive stop rocker arm studs. The ones you can adjust yourself would not have that shoulder on them.

I would still torque them with the valve closed, not open. The spring pressure could throw off your torque value. So torque all of them that are closed and then rotate the engine to get some more closed, etc.

After I started thinking about the lube question a better choice is to go to your neartest auto parts store and get a tube of Assembly Lube. Its a white looking goop you use when putting engines together. It melts into the oil when it gets warm and pretty much dissapears and it's not real expensive.

Yeah, I was doing some thinking on the spring pressure while torquing. So your sources say 18 ft lbs. for the rocker arm nuts? My book has no value for pre-2000 models, unless I missed it somewhere? And I'll go ahead and grab the assembly lube while I'm out today.