1997 Chevy Blazer LT - Transmission problems
#1
So I have a list of codes that I have just pulled from my blazer all in relations to the transmission. The transmission is running in limp mode atm and I need some answers from everyone who has a lot of knowledge of transmission work to blazers. There is 155k miles and has the factory engine and trans.
The codes that I pulled off were for solenoids A & B, TCC Solenoid, shift/timing...
Here are the codes
- P0740
- P0753
- P0758
- P0785
- P1860
So the questions I am looking to get answered is.. Can I replace all of the solenoids without taking the transmission out? By replacing the solenoids, will I be able to access all of them simply by dropping the transmission pan?
Thanks, all knowledgeable input will be very appreciated!
The codes that I pulled off were for solenoids A & B, TCC Solenoid, shift/timing...
Here are the codes
- P0740
- P0753
- P0758
- P0785
- P1860
So the questions I am looking to get answered is.. Can I replace all of the solenoids without taking the transmission out? By replacing the solenoids, will I be able to access all of them simply by dropping the transmission pan?
Thanks, all knowledgeable input will be very appreciated!
#2
I have also read through many forums from various sites about these issues and some saying that it is not the solenoids but it is the ignition switch that needs to be replaced and will only occur on the 1997's. Has anyone else gone through this issue and just replaced the ignition switch and was good to go? It would make sense because my ignition switch will not allow me to turn it completely back to "off"... So I just wiggle my key out and am able to start my rig without a key in the ignition.
#3
I know I may seem like I am talking to myself on here, but I just got done taken a look at the ignition column and got the key to turn back to the "OFF" position and then took my rig around the block and all gears worked perfect and drove fine. All it took was a couple smacks with the fist to get the key to lock. So it must be something within my ignition column that's stalling up.
#4
Update: If I leave the place cover off around the ignition I do not have any issues but as soon as I put it back on it will go into limp mode.. Its a weird problem but just keeping it off until i figure out whats going on once I put the cover back on.
#6
It is just the part on the ignition where the key goes in and will not turn all the way to the off position. When it does not allow me to turn the key to the off position it goes into limp mode. So did some more research on this topic with people saying to replace the ignition, however, there are two parts to buy to replace it. The key lock cylinder or the ignition harness. I am not having electrical issues and after reading other peoples posts about their identical problem, they all had problems with electrical issues. The only problem is when the key will not turn back to the lock position, it puts my rig in limp mode. When I can get the key to return to lock and the off position, my rig drives perfectly fine. I am thinking of just getting a new key lock cylinder to see if that fixes the problem because the other ignition part is about $110 dollars.
#7
New Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 6

Did you check the website of your local automotive stores for the part sometimes yiu get better prices then whats in the stores. Hope you get it figured out. Ive been having problems getting the parts i need and no one has replyed to my post.
#8
I am going to go with the key/lock cylinder for replacement first since it is only $17 dollars and the other is $105.00
PM if you do not here from others if you have problems with your rig
PM if you do not here from others if you have problems with your rig
#9
Beginning Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 25

Hello guys just had this problem happen to me about an hour ago pulled the P0740, P1860, I did notice that my key was having a little trouble coming out I replaced my ignition lock cylinder and ignition switch back in January because my blazer was broken into and they forced the ignition and got it started. In my experience if your battery runs to low your key will be held in the lock cylinder, it's a security feature so no one can walk off with your key. OK so I replaced my two front wheel bearing assemblies and backing plates last week aswell as my radiator (had a small leak) and now this, any way this could be related to my ABS? payday is on Tuesday so I guess I'll try replacing the multifunction switch, I replaced it once before when I first bought it with one from the wreakers, I'll keep you guys informed if this works btw I also had the transsmition rebuilt when I bought my Blazer, only has about 30,000 Kilometers on it since then
Edit: I think I found out what the problem might be, there is a small two wire connector under the lock cylinder that is part of the multifunction switch I found it to be a little loose so I made sure it was clipped into the connector and now no problems at all after I cleared the codes one last time, also checked all fuses, may still need new switch I'll keep everyone posted
Edit: I think I found out what the problem might be, there is a small two wire connector under the lock cylinder that is part of the multifunction switch I found it to be a little loose so I made sure it was clipped into the connector and now no problems at all after I cleared the codes one last time, also checked all fuses, may still need new switch I'll keep everyone posted
Last edited by Hammond1524; 07-09-2012 at 12:19 AM.
#10
Starting Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 1

Just replaced bothe 1-2&2-3 shift solenoids. No issues until I went to start truck, turned the key and nothing. Like the battery is dead ( new battery ) Can't get the key to shut off.
Thinking that when I was putting the shift cable back on I moved the arm the cable clips onto I shifted gears.
Ideas?
Thinking that when I was putting the shift cable back on I moved the arm the cable clips onto I shifted gears.
Ideas?
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