2000 blazer has fuel and spark no start
 

OK so start of the story... for the last 2 years the car has started fine. when it was very. old out it would have a miss under light acceleration until it was warmed up then it would run fine the rest of the day. over the weekend as normal it started fine, I let it warm up while I was finishing getting ready and we took off. I made it 1/2 a mile and the car started sputtering very badly. I noticed I was much lower on fuel than I thought so I limped it the block to the gas station and filled it up thinking I was out of fuel.

The car started back up and idled OK but when I gave it throttle it stumbled. I limped it back home. I didn't want yo deal with it at the moment. later that night we got home and it would not start back up. I will say when it was missing it smelled like eggs from the exhaust. super rich. now the car will not start.
I have had fuel pump issues in the past so I did the ether test done the intake and it still would not fire. I have spark coming out of the distributor to the plugs, I replaced the plugs and have 60 psi fuel pressure when cranking the engine.
it still will not start. I think I M down to mechanical and running a compression test, but does anyone have any ideas for electrical ignition where I can have spark and no start?

update... I ran a compression test on 5 of the 6 cylinders and range from 175 to 205 psi.
at this point the car sounds like it is trying to start but just won't and after about 30 seconds of trying to start it smells like rotten eggs. there is good air flow out the tail pipe so I don't think the cat is clogged.
I am down to timing, either advanced or retarded by the computer. distributor timing is set to the crank.

this is going to be something stupid but I am stumped at this point.

Check fuel pressure and leakdown. Ignition ON, engine OFF, fuel pump running, pressure must be 60psi to 66psi. Pressure must remain above 55psi for at least 10 minutes after the pump shuts off. Post your results.
Also:
Does the check engine light come on with the bulb check and then shut off?
Are there any DTC's in memory?
If so, what are they and what order were they retrieved?
Has the distributor been removed since the engine quit running?
How old and what brand is the distributor cap & rotor?

What do you mean by "distributor timing is set to the crank"?

The ECM takes care of ignition timing, there are no adjustments.

codes present p300 multi cylinder misfire.
vehicle will not start on ether so fuel is out but it will hit 60 psi while cranking. not sure how long pressure holds but again vehicle will not start on ether.
timing the rotor meets the arrow on the distributor when the timing is set on the crank.
I have good blue spark At all plugs so regardless of what brand cap and rotor, spark is there with new OEM plugs.
parts replaced
pick up coil (pulled the distributor to replace)
map sensor( clogged with soot buildup)
and battery because I had a battery issue.

what is an OK compression test for these. I could not find a number in my manual.

new follow up. it was still holding pressure on the fuel system after charging up. using a scan tool I noticed the knock sensor is sitting at 4.9 volts. I think this means that it is showing active for a detonation. could this be a ground issue? Would this cause timing to adjust in the computer and not allow starting?

Knock sensor at 4.9 is normal, no knock detected. P0300 is almost always caused by a fault in secondary ignition: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and ignition coil. It can also be caused by low fuel pressure and incorrect camshaft retard. The fact that you smelled the rotten eggs, and fuel pressure is in the ballpark, is a pretty good indication that the problem is ignition. Have you replaced the ignition wires? It's possible the coil is shorting to ground as well. If you had the distributor out, odd are nearly 100% that camshaft retard is incorrect. Is your scan tool capable of viewing camshaft retard streaming data?

EDIT: The sensor in the distributor is the camshaft position sensor, not a pick up coil. It can be disconnected and the engine will still start and run. Data from the sensor is used with the crankshaft position sensor to detect and accurately identify cylinder misfire. If camshaft retard is not correct, misfire inside the cap will occur. If it's off far enough, it can cause a no-start condition without turning the SES light on or setting a DTC in memory. A word of warning: Do not replace the crankshaft position sensor unless there is a DTC in memory and the flow chart specifically instructs you to replace it.

I am using a snap on scan tool that will go up to a 99 blazer. I have a 2000 but I am almost positive they are going to be the same.
as for the distributor, I have verified I am getting spark at the plugs so I think I am dealing with a timing issue, but not a physical one. the distributor rotor is lining up with the arrow under the cap and the crank is lined up with the crank timing mark on the block.
it will be a day before I have time to go back to this, but I will see if the scan tool tells me timing advancement or retard.
I replaced the coil with an MSD coil pack about 6 months ago to try and help run ability. as I mentioned the vehicle has had a stumble in cold weather until it warms up and when it would rain.
could bad ECU grounds cause something similar?

PS: I call it a pick up coil because that is what the manual and parts store recognize it as but I know it gives cam position.
Thanks for any help. this is getting tedious after this weekend of trying to figure this out.

1999 & 2000 are almost identical, there might be some minor changes, but that's about it. Depending on which model Snap on scan tool you have, you'll probably find camshaft retard in the misfire menu, all the way at the bottom. All this stuff you're experiencing could be caused by incorrect camshaft retard.

If you had poor or missing PCM ground(s), you'd have a boat load of DTC's in memory. Easy to check them: On the rear of each cylinder head is a bolt, each one has several grounds attached to it, and most of them are engine related.

Good question. Loosen the 10mm distributor hold down bolt and rotate the distributor. From the factory, there's ~12 degrees total adjustment. If you need more, the original hold down bracket must be removed from the distributor and one of these will make it fully adjustable: Mr. Gasket Distributor Hold-Down Clamps 1009 - SummitRacing.com