Ok... So i recently pulled the motor out of my 98 chevy blazer due to a bent crankshaft.. I got another motor from a friend and rebuilt it from the heads up..... When i finally finished the partial build on the new motor before i dropped it back in my blazer i took the opportunity to adjust the rocker arms for the valves (following the Haynes manual to the letter) and put it back in made sure all my grounds were hooked up bolted it in and reconnected all the plugs on the wiring harness making sure to double and triple that i hadn't missed anything that should have been done i put the drive belt on and had my wife turn it over until oil pressure registered on the guage.... I then put the spark plugs back in popped the wires on and had her crank it over again.....

It acted like it wanted to start but never truly fired up and it would sometime randomly diesel once after my wife shut the key off... So i readjusted the valves again with the same result but a little closer to hearing it run for the first time sense i swapped motors so i repeated the process again and adjusted the rockers for the 3rd time and again the same thing ......


I know the distributor only goes in one way

Please help guys this is my first motor swap I've done by myself that wasn't on a Honda and my first on a 4x4... I learned a lot from my dad and uncle who are both certified but this one has me stumped

No idea what to do or where to start


Thanks in advance and any advice is good

 

I just wanted to make sure you have the distributor and plug wires installed correctly.
You did make sure the engine was at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke and then align the distributor rotor with the little arrow inside the distributor?
Also are the plug wires in the correct order? starting at the front and going back on the drivers side is 3,1,5 and front to back on passengers side is 2,4,6.

 

https://www.justanswer.com/chevy/586...er-165432.html

 

1998 valves are not adjustable. Torque them to 20 ft lbs and you're done. What engine is in it now?

Throw the Haynes manual in the trash can. It's worthless IMHO. For example telling you how to adjust valves. Get a real factory manual if you feel that you need one for a particular problem. AlldataDIY has subscriptions.

Probably distributor is not in right. There are two marks on the balancer. For TDC #1. Remove #1 spark plug and stick your finger in or over the hole (not to far in if you have small fingers - ouch!! . Mine fits nicely in the threaded portion!) Have someone tap the starter until you start feeling compression. Continue just a little more by hand until: one mark goes to 5:00 while the other points to the mark on the timing cover (1:30). At that point, the distributor rotor should be pointing to the "6" stamped in the top of the housing where the cap sits (not to #1 plug wire). Some one will be shure to point out that TDC#1 can also be determined by the piston cycle where the valves (rocker arms) for #1 do not move.

If it starts and runs with no P1345 code, the distributor is in correctly. If it still won't start get back to us.

After all is finished and running OK, you should have a crankshaft sensor relearn done. This will probably be necessary to get the SES light to not display P030x codes from the PCM being calibrated to a different sensor/engine.

Good luck and best wishes for a successful repair.

 

ChuckNTruck... I have the plugs in the correct order and the distributor doesn't have an arrow it has a number 6 and a number 8 and when you set it in you set it at tdc compression stroke pointing to the number 6... Well i tired for a while but could not get it to line up with the 6 it was either to far past or to far before it

 

if you do have at top dead center and the distributor is no lining up, you need a LONG flathead screwdriver to turn the slot on the top of the oil pump left or right. then retry installing the dist. this video is very helpfull

 

 

Well you need to to get the distributor in right first before you do the relearn. The relearn will not line it up

 

Failing to have a relearn done will not cause a misfire or cause it not to start. So I would wait and have the relearn done very last thing after getting it running and buttoning it up. It has to run anyways in order to do the relearn, and will need to go to a shop with a capable scanner in order to trigger it. Good luck!

 

I know i wouldn't cause any start an run issues an i have a $5000 snapon scan tool that can do everything but the dishes lol