4L60E removal hell
 

Hey blazers, I'm having the worst time removing this "tranny" from my truck. Its a 97 blazer 4X4. (supposedly.. well deal with that later) Ive been under the truck for two weeks probably given available time from work and I have almost everything undone but a few sensors that wanna crack off an not unplug and the 11 o'clock bolt on the bell housing. Anyone out there have some tips that can make this transaction move along? Id really hate to have to sale it or spend two grand at a shop. I'm not cheap i just cant give that chunk of cash out right now. I know this is a generally expensive fix.Im nose deep in two chiltons books. One for S series and one for full size. Neither one show an exact match for mine. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot. Thanks.

The easiest way to remove the top two bolts is to drop the rear of the transmission. Using a jack remove the transmission mount and cross-member. You'll also want to remove the 7 screws that holds the top half of the engine fan shroud (should be 10mm heads)...3 on top of of the radiator mount and 2 on each side half way down the shroud. If you don't, the fan blades will contact the shroud before you have lowered as far as possible. Also keep an eye on the top rear of the engine to insure that nothing contacts the firewall and breaks (distributor cap, etc). I've not had any issues...but keep an eye just in case. Then get around 2' of extensions (ballpark) and a swivel socket. Work from the rear of the transmission: snake the socket over top of the transmission, fuel lines and through the vacuum hoses. You can get both top bolts in and out very easily this way.

Couple things. When I do this I usually have my Blazer on 4 car ramps. Allows me to put my head behind the transmission and get a straight line of sight on the bolts (use a headlamp to make it even better). But you don't have to do it that way.

Some people say to raise the body off the frame. I can remove the bolts so quickly dropping the rear of the tranny that I'm not going to waste time raising the body. Plus it adds an unnecessary step to the final goal of removing the transmission IMHO.

As far as the sensors...I've never run into an issue where they want to crack to be disconnected myself. But that's just what I have experienced. Are you sure you are trying to disconnect them the correct way?

I have a special extension for these types of jobs
I cut a 4inch long extension in half and welded the halves on a piece of metal rod

could you post a pic of your modified tool?

I have two 12" and one 24" extensions that works great on my 95 T/A and the blazer.. TIP the neutral saftey switch will unplug easy if you heat it up first and melt the factory glue.

Rock is dead on about dropping the rear of the trans..

as for fuel lines , just unbolt the from tranny and leave connected front to back. its only 2 bolts. Manual has you diconecting lines at the filter and intake which is not needed

boy that dont sound right. :icon_saywhat:

but id like to see it too.:icon_beerchug:

Good point. IamHyde, the instructions I gave you were with the assumption that all other necessary components have been removed. Exhaust pipes, transfer case, drive-shaft etc.

s10 trannys suck, not the worst ever but give a good challenge, i do them at work with air tools and up on a rack i couldnt immagine doing this at home with hand tools on my back.

another tip if you havent got the two big wire clips disconnected on the driversisde of the trans, they are actually glued in there, you need to heat them up with a heat gun, or maybe a hair drier will work and they come right apart.

:icon_flowers:flowers first please LMAO
Unfortunately its at my brother inlaws right now , and he didnt return it yet

mine is a cheap 3/8 drive 4 inch long extension that has been cut in half with a 2ft long piece of steel rod welded in between the ends

I think a 1/2 drive would be just too bulky