ok let me redo it bc the second time the drain hose was loose prob made it china

alright i turn the key on not starting the engine my hand on the pressure gauge reads between 53psi and 54psi well it continue to climb slowly reaching just below the hash mark of 60psi and the time it took was 30-50seconds i turn off and pull the key out let sit for exactly ten minutes it went down to 59psi around 7min and 30sec and remain there till times up... i released the pressure and let drain to make sure my gauge wasnt stuck

 

Not sure why your pump appears weak and requires time to go above 55psi... That doesn't sound right.

Move on to the other stuff I stated already. I'm not going to type it out for a 3rd time.

 

Im seconding that notion. I did the same thing you did and put aftermarket durajunk from AZ on it.. had nothing but problems..

 

ok i think i found the problem i changed all the wires and plugs and like i said it runs better but misses i was thinking about the cap and rotor i replaced and remembered that the rotor hand some play in it. as i installed it the movement was a back and forth motion "as in a clockwise and counter clockwise" direction i was talking to a friend and he said there shouldnt be any movement what so ever.... the movement isn't much i say a quarter inch of play but got me thinking couldnt that throw off the firing to each prong??? on the same day i just happen to tap the top of the cap and it didnt have the sputtering at idle and seemed to drive awesome but soon went back. so i believe either my cap and rotor are not it time or the whole distributor needs to be replaced... but somehow its not in-sync... so my question is... is there expose to be any movement in the rotor? and if not could it be the whole distributor that needs to be replaced... and i know you guts mention acdelco part. which i have on there now durralast which i plan to change with acdelco but even with new parts the play in the rotor is my concern????? thanks for any help
oh and i forgot to mention my check engine light went off with the change of plugs and wires, and the acting right of the distributor, but came back on soon after so i know my whole sputtering and missing problem is this fricken plastic crap lol

 

A little movement is normal, but 1/4" is very excessive. It shouldn't be more than 1/32 of an inch at the tip of the rotor accounting for the backlash in the gear mesh between the cam gear and the distributor drive gear. Excessive play could be a result of a worn out distributor gear that will cause improper timing control. It is more economical to install a replacement distributor than it is to replace the gear alone, don't ask me why...

If you do end up finding that the distributor gear is worn out and end up replacing the distributor, make sure to get the CMP Retard set properly to 0 degrees. This requires a scan tool capable of displaying the CMP Retard value while you move the distributor around with the bolt just snugged up. There is just enough play between the distributor base & the hole in the lower intake manifold that the distributor drops down through to alter the CMP Retard by 15 degrees or so.

You will also have to have a CASE relearn (aka Crankshaft Variation Learn) procedure performed to let the PCM learn the new slight variance in CMP to CKP event timings.

 

ok thanks

 

As I already stated, there should be VERY LITTLE allowable movement. If you have more than 1/32", there is a problem with the distributor that will result in erratic spark timing. Pull the distributor and check the gear.

If you look up the prices for just the gear and then for a new distributor, you'll see why I recommended buying the whole distributor.

Regardless of whether you replace the whole distributor or just the gear, the CMP Retard & CASE Relearn procedures should be performed. By setting the CMP retard to zero, you line up the distributor drive gear for the best service life.

 

well i talked to a mechanic and said if i plan to replace the distributor all i would have to to it make sure the rotor points the same direction as i took it out and should be good

 

Your mechanic is clearly mistaken and does not understand the requirements of your vehicle and it's systems.

If you listen to your mechanic, here are three possible outcomes with #3 being the most likely IMO (which is based on past experience):
1) you get lucky and it doesn't trigger a P1345 code as well as get the CMP retard somewhere close blindly. -- better go buy a lottery ticket because your HOT!
2) you get lucky and it doesn't trigger a P1345 code and you get the CMP retard way wrong and it chews up the drive gear over the next year or two.
3) you don't get lucky and it triggers a P1345 code and it chews up the drive gear...

You might be able to get by without performing either, but for the most efficient operation & the longest service life out of the distributor drive gear, performing the required procedures is necessary. Don't repeat the steps that potentially put you in this situation in the first place.

How lucky do you feel?

 

alright one step closer to running perfect i replaced the rotor and cap bc the ones i had on there had little bit of build up after a month of being used must have been when i took off the hoses to the heater core to replace it anyhow i still have a sputter on acceleration it seem to idle great but still sputtering read some forums and EGR and mass air flow when cleaned seem to help some people, my only question is.. is the EGR valve located on the front of the throttle body and got some kind of connection to it? im new to the this site if there are pics that would be awesome.
oh and my rotor didnt have that much play in it so i guess just faulty connections