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98 Blazer wants to but won't start...
Got a 98 that was running, horribly, was pushing a P0300 and had very little power, couldn't keep it running without feathering the pedal. After moving it, it started getting harder to start, until it just wouldn't start at all, not even with starting fluid, which I don't like using as it is. Anyone got any ideas, I know it's getting fuel, but plugs seem a like they are getting fouled, I'm thinking it might be either ignition switch, or coil/distributor, anything else?:icon_screwy:
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take it to some sand pits burn it and claim insurance on it
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Originally Posted by epilou
(Post 570385)
Got a 98 that was running, horribly, was pushing a P0300 and had very little power, couldn't keep it running without feathering the pedal. After moving it, it started getting harder to start, until it just wouldn't start at all, not even with starting fluid, which I don't like using as it is. Anyone got any ideas, I know it's getting fuel, but plugs seem a like they are getting fouled, I'm thinking it might be either ignition switch, or coil/distributor, anything else?:icon_screwy:
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P0300 is almost always caused by a fault in the secondary ignition system: Spark plugs, (should be AC Delco 41-993 with .060" gap). Spark plug wires, (need to be good quality). Distributor cap & rotor, (should also be AC Delco). Ignition coil, (needs to be good quality). Incorrect camshaft retard can also set P0300 series DTC's. If the distributor has not been moved, it may be OK. Low fuel pressure can also cause it, but if adding starting fluid doesn't help, and the plugs are fouled, those are pretty strong indicators that it's probably not a fuel issue. Start with an AC Delco distributor cap & rotor. Apply a dab of silicone dielectric grease to each terminal, inside and out, of the cap. Post your results.
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Well I couldn't get spark after I had checked, replaced rotor, found a corroded ICM, and it's better than before, but just won't catch. It actually has started a few times. I'm thinking that it's fuel pressure, but don't have a gauge to check with, any ideas?
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One more thing, I do see that the oil has fuel in it, so this is the reason I'm thinking pressure is too low.
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Had a almost similar problem mine died, acted like it wanted to start but wouldn't it was the fuel pump. My buddy did a pressure test, all he did was shoot the fuel, he said if it dont go almost if not the length of your truck then its ur fuel pump. He replaced it and it starts great now. Basically if u can pee farther then the fuel shoots replace the fuel pump as he said LOL
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If it doesn't start with starting fluid, that's a clue that fuel is not the issue, (low fuel pressure causes a lean condition). If you have a misfire caused by poor or no spark, the injectors still keep squirting fuel, even while cranking the starter. If the fuel doesn't burn, the liquid fuel seeps past the rings and ends up in the oil.
You can check fuel pressure easy enough, and it's free, we can help you with the specs and procedure. But with the symptoms you described, I'd consider the distributor cap, rotor, plugs & wires first. |
Baker, wish I could but when I first bought the truck it needed a lot of work, but was only $300 which in NS is more than a steal, just haven't been able to get it on the road yet. Had to replace the IM gaskets, and a couple other things, but nothing expensive yet, did some body work, in total I think I have put in maybe 500 on the whole. So not willing to scrap it just yet!
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Originally Posted by Captain Hook
(Post 571768)
If it doesn't start with starting fluid, that's a clue that fuel is not the issue, (low fuel pressure causes a lean condition). If you have a misfire caused by poor or no spark, the injectors still keep squirting fuel, even while cranking the starter. If the fuel doesn't burn, the liquid fuel seeps past the rings and ends up in the oil.
You can check fuel pressure easy enough, and it's free, we can help you with the specs and procedure. But with the symptoms you described, I'd consider the distributor cap, rotor, plugs & wires first. |
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