Crap...I was afraid you were going to say that. I had a sliver of hope that you would say "You're good to go...start 'er up." As you can see I'm pretty **** about my work. Right now I know I have the distributor installed dead on the money. I was trying to get away from removing it once it was in the truck. Oh well, I know you're right. As another option, have you had any experience using something like the Melling Pressurized Oil Primer on these Vortec's? Is there somewhere else I could connect it to besides where the oil sending unit is? (which also requires distributor removal). Thanks Hook.

 

The wife says "No!". I think she still remembers about 20 years ago when she came home from a visit with her folks to our small apartment and I had the top end of a Nissan Sentra spread around the living room because of a broken timing belt. I was sitting on the floor lopping in a valve when she walked in.

 

I always use a drill and an old screwdriver with the handle chopped off, works great.

 

I'm seeking a recommendation on the brand/type of heat barrier material I should use to cover the plastic A/C Evaporator Module cover located just above the passenger side exhaust manifold. I've been searching on the internet and there are several products I have found. Only the remnants of the OEM product are still present and the cover already has signs of deterioration from the heat of the exhaust manifold. Any recommendations are appreciated. I've read good and bad on every product I've found so far. Right now I am leaning towards But I also saw an adhesive backed product. Any suggestions?

 

Looks like a good alternative to OEM, maybe even better. The question is how to attach it. Can't remember, (or don't know) how the OEM one is attached. Mother-in-law tape, (2 faced tape) is probably not a good idea due to the close proximity to high heat. 1500F is more than the engine compartment should ever see though. Judging by the size, you'll have plenty left over, should be a lifetime supply

 

wow! that is a pretty engine!, too bad they dont make clear polycarbonate hoods so you could see it with the hood closed!, hopefully it works as good as it looks, makes me wonder what the chassis looks like that its going into. my '96 got a junkyard engine swap, did some minimal parts replacements. (lower intake gasket, high volume oil pump, crank seals) runs great, didnt bother with any extreme clean up or painting though.

 

No way! You don't remember?! Let it be known that on this date in the year of our Lord 2014 I STUMPED THE HOOK!! Moderators, where do I go to pick up my prize check?

I'm thinking about 3 different ways to attach it. First there's a high heat spray adhesive for this stuff. I read a review where some guy used velcro. Finally, I'm looking at using the little bolts on the plastic cover to thru-bolt attach it.

Thanks for the input as always Captain!

 

^^ x2. Fingers and toes crossed. Thanks. If nothing unforeseen pulls me away from the project, I hope to be turning the key in two weeks.

 

Too funny! I'll be the first to admit that my CRS acts up quite often! But, with all due respect, I did say, "Can't remember, (or don't know) how the OEM one is attached." And as for being stumped, there are a TON of threads I don't respond to.... because they all stump me

Get a video when when that dragon starts breathing fire again!

 

OK..stupid question time. I'm bound and determined to at least get my engine on the engine mounts tonight. But I need help on a bolt issue concerning my pressure plate bolts (manual trans remember).

Setup: I've been trying to replace bolts and nuts with new on many parts. The setup is, my pressure plate-to-flywheel fasteners are Grade 5; 3/8x16x1 bolts with lock washers (pictured on the right). I haven't been able to find the same bolts with the smooth part of the shank you see. Figuring the smooth shank might be for a strength reason on this application, I bought Grade 8 without the smooth shank.

But I'm wondering if by design there is another reason or two for the smooth shank in this application: like to stop the bolt from tightening past a certain length. Like there might be design to hold the clutch and pressure plate tight (torqued correctly obviously) but at a certain "distance" from the flywheel? Which actually strikes me as odd anyway since the fastener is supposed to stretch normally.

That actually made me think also is it necessary that I use Grade 5 because for a proper stretch in this application..or I might damage the flywheel by using Grade 8? I don't see a problem...but I also know that when Captain Hook & Swartlkk first conceptualized and designed the first S series Blazers... ...they might have had an important reason for the specific Grade 5 bolts that I cannot deviate from.

So bottom line question is, does anyone think there is a problem with me using the new Grade 8 bolts without the smooth shank to attach the pressure plate (and clutch disk) to the flywheel?