Anyone recommend a good Gasket Removal Solvent???
 

I'm working on my 94 jimmy 4.3 vortec w vin
Most of the lower intake manifold gasket came off but, there are spots with gasket still present I need to remove in order to replace the gaskets.
anyone know a good tool and a good gasket removal solvent that won't damage the head surfaces?
Thanks!

I've yet to find a solvent that will remove every last bit of gasket or sealer. The best tool to use is a specialized gasket removing tool. Most auto parts stores carry them. You still have to be a bit careful as you can still damage the surface but much better than a screw driver or chisel.

Not all gasket removal tools are created equal. I had a great one but I broke it. I got one that looked like a direct replacement but it did not work at well. The moral? It is worth trying a tool until you find one that works. I have seen a tool with a long handle that holds a razor blade that looked like it could work well.

The heads are steel, you are not going to hurt them. If you actually could you wouldn't want them on your engine anyways.
Instead of spending booko bucks on a special tool, the cheapest and best thing I have found to use is a 1'' to a 1/1'2" wide steel putty knife sharpened some on a bench grinder,or even a file if you don't own a grinder { they will hold the edge well} followed with a wooden handled wire brush if needed.
For oil and sealant residue use a clean rag soaked with a little carb cleaner and wipe the faces down
Put chunks of rags or paper towels in the valve intake holes and rags in the valve valley to ease the final cleanup of gasket parts and pieces.

This! I've used the same sharpened putty knife for 25 years - It has gotten shorter, though! I just keep dressing it with a good flat file when it gets dull - I find the edge is easier to keep straight when using a file, but use the file properly (don't saw with it, hold a standard flat at 45° to the edge you are cutting with both hands, and push the file parallel to the edge you are working on and then off the end. Only go one way across the edge you are sharpening and watch that your fingers don't get in the way). Same file and method can be used to quickly sharpen garden hoes and machettes to an amazing dangerous sharpness. My grandfather taught us this as kids, so we could sharpen our "corn knives" in the field when we were out "walking soybeans".

This kind of home-made gasket scraper ends up like a razor blade with a handle - you can even hit the butt with your palm in tough spots. Initially you want to cut a bevel on one side of the blade. The opposite side should not be beveled and only dressed enough to take off the flash after dressing the beveled side. As far as putty knifes go.... if they do not flex and spring back to original position when bent, they are made of poor quality steel. Look for one where the blade goes clear back to the end of the handle butt, and handle is riveted through the blade.