Do you have auto4wd? Also, what is it that you are working with here... I had made some assumptions initially...

If you have Auto4wd, then this may be the front axle engagement solenoid. This vacuum line should go to the front axle engagement actuator which for a 2nd gen is located under the battery tray.

 

Yes there is an A4WD feature, though I never use it; and I'll check first thing tomorrow and see if that is indeed the A4WD solenoid.



Vehicle is a 2000 Blazer LS 4x4. The usual 4.3L Vortec.

 

I still have yet to find where this vacuum line connects to. I checked out under the battery tray and couldn't see any connect points... but I only spent about ten minutes looking; once I get knees deep in the engine bay again Ill look harder.

EDIT: So I removed the battery tray and there isn't anything under there other than a junction box for the positive terminal and the wire harness for the horn. Any further hints would be greatly welcomed. I've been up in the wheel well, under the computer/overflow tank, and I just cant find where this hose hooks up. I have a feeling once I find it, or someone points it out, I'm going to feel like a moron!

EDIT 2: Sorry I add more questions to the same thread. I hope I'm not confusing anyone. I need some advice on removing the fan from the water pump. Its still under tension from the serpentine belt, and when I put a large wrench on that center nut it just spins the pulley under the belt. If I hold one of the pulley to pump bolts with a wrench, its tightening it almost to the point of breaking, as I try to break torque on the fan nut. Am I suppose to use something special to take the fan off? Chiltons just says to remove the big nut. Maybe I should blast it with some WD40. Not sure. Advice, once again, is greatly appreciated.

On a side note, I fixed the oil dipstick tube, shes now showing the correct amount of oil in the crankcase. Valve covers are back to where they should be too.

Upon ensuring proper coolant level in the system, it started to heavily seep out of the water pumps weep hole. Read on here that its a bad impeller blade seal. Go figure. At least the water pump at the store is only 50 bucks, and its fairly easy to change without major incident.



If it isn't one thing, its another...

The back hatch will no longer open either. I was storing the new jugs of oil and coolant in there so I wouldn't mix them up with the "hazardous waste" of the recaptured old fluid in similar containers. Now; she just whines at me with the little noise of the actuating motor and doesn't release the glass gate. Cant open the tail gate unless this is open either. No methods of prying are going to work... and while this is probably meant for a different thread, has anyone had to crawl inside the cargo area to pull the door apart due to the same problem? What a pain. So many times have I debated on selling this truck; but it has everything I want in a small sized SUV. Guess Ill love her through thick and thin. Any advice from you professional DIYers? Any tricks on getting the gate opened without power?

Thanks.

 

Sounds like you are making headway on the engine. Before you go through all of the trouble of installing the new water pump, check the gasket surfaces against a known flat surface (piece of glass works great). I have seen a few instances where remanufactured water pumps do now have parallel or even flat gasket surfaces resulting in a blown out gasket.

For the rear hatch, Faulty Rear Hatch

 

If by making headway you mean taking a few steps back, then yep, all is going great! I didn't work on it much tonight; was busy enough thanks to the Air Force. However I will certainly check the gasket surfaces for flatness. It is a new ACDelco part, so it should be flawless; however with experience, its always better to check. Good advice, thank you Swart.

And the Rear Hatch thread worked great. I looked for it, but as you are a diety here it does make the normal user's job much easier. Thank you very much; and I'll keep everyone posted!

As a return for everyones work and advice, I'd like to make a step by step for removing the water pump; as soon as I break the torque on this nut that is. I feel a need to give back to this community.

I have more projects to do, so maybe I'll do guides for those as well. We'll see how the "easy" water pump goes!

 

I have a 2000 4x4x4 LS and couldn't find what you have posted in your picture. My truck looks different. If you do have the auto4x4 then that could be why. Mine doesn't ahve the auto 4x4, mine is a part time t-case NP233. Look at teh tag on the back of the t-case, what model do you have?

Too be honest I don't remember how I got my fan off, or rather I dont want to confuse it with an earlier model. If memory does serve me correctly. I left the belt on, put a crescent, maybe a pipe wrench, on it with a long breaker bar and cranked. Or it had 4 bolts that hold teh fan blades in place. Now I'll have to go look. I'll post up later tonight. I have to stain my bar counter top today will I still have decent weather. I take a look between coats.

 

Thanks Hanr. I thought the 4x4x4 meant it was 4x4 hi and low, with the auto 4wd function. Dangit.
I haven't looked at my transfer case yet. been doing the water pump today; couldn't get the fan off of the pump so I removed the entire assembly. I'll get it off somehow outside of the vehicle.

If anyone has a 2000 with Auto4x4 and 4x4 Hi + Lo, please if you can look at the post with the pictures of the vacuum line above, trace that line in question to where it connects to and tell me, I'll love you forever.

<3

 

I was messing around under the hood this weekend and I tried tracing them and I lost them both. I wasn't really trying to look were they went just seeing if I could find it. The one with the 2 lines on it the one that goes to the left, pass. side, goes around the engine then goes down at the front of the engine (I didn't feel like crawling around under the truck). The line that goes to the right goes into that T fitting in the first pic. The one of the lines runs up the drivers fender and goes into the fender. I will look a little better if we are slow at the shop tomorrow, plus I have to change that T-case switch.

 

I found it. It was under the battery tray like swart said. It wasn't out in the open either, to be in my defense. The soilenoid has a hookup almost dead center underneath, only visible with an inspection mirror. I took pics. Will post very soon.


First attempt at starting was a fail. Most likely I put the distrb 180 out. I smell fuel in exhaust and every now and then hear a pop of a combustion, but no crank. Will check rotor and cables tomorrow. Time for bed.

Thanks for all the participation.

 

Line dropping under the truck goes to your t-case, it provides vacuum to the t-case.
Line going in the drivers fender goes to your HVAC controls, it provides vacuum so you can switch from the floor to the defrost, the HVAC system is vacuum operated.

4x4x4=4 tires x 4 wheel drive x 4 doors.

It would have been easier with the pump in the truck.
Have you covered it with PB Blaster?