Ok, did all what the tec articels tell me to do. Put it at TDC before removing the dist. and rotor, and I was a tooth off. Played some with it and got it back in like the picture under shows, close enough or to much advanced?

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...a/IMAG0173.jpg

When checking the timing, can I disconnect the timing connector and check for 0 timing with a OBDII tool?

Thanks a lot for taking the time to read my posts :):):)

Worked on this almost all day. But I'm stuck at finding the timing bypass wire.
I have searched all the places I have read about. Under carpet close to heater core, passenger kick panel, driver side close to transmission hump, engine room close to computer and so on. I read that there should be a 4 pin connector on the distributor and that the wire have it origin from that. On my distributor there are only 3 wires. one dark collor and two pink. A bit hard to make out the collors, as they are faded and discollored.

The only singel wire with black connector I find is this orange one, with a small black connector. Could this be it?

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...a/IMAG0193.jpg

It's tucked up under the kick panel just under the glove box, next to the floor curtisy light


If that is not it, where the #%#? is the timing bypass wire on a 95 blazer, 4.3 W

I would say your timing mark is dead on. Here is what mitchel on demand had to say about setting timing.

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/5177/59255394.jpg

That's just it, my blazer don't have the 4-wire connector at the distributor. This is what my distributor is set up with:
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...getimage-1.jpg

This trows me off a bitt, I can' find any bypass wire.

Well i dont know. Are you sure yours is a 1995 and that it has the correct engine in it?Its quite possible its a late 95 but really a 1996 and the timing is not adjustable?

Yes, its a late 95, and maybe really a 96, and no the timing is not adjustable.
But I won't to make sure that I have the distributor back in at the right tooth, and at 0, timing by-passed. This is the only reason I'm looking for the by-pass wire. :):)

i also have a 95 truck.....and it came from the factory with a 96 style ditributor on the top portion of the distributor.....its a crab style cap with no adjustment and a hook on the bottom to locate it.....96 had the dame top but different bottom to lacate it.....the timing is all computer controled....you can only advance the timing if you modify your rotor button and turn the rotor clockwise like i did.....

holy cow, i typed all this info on this tread and it was deleted some how!

Here we go again!! I'm so sick of this Blazer, but at the moment I have no other solution then to keep at it. I need this Blazer.

I think that my ignition still is off! I't has a growling sound at acceleration that makes me worry. It starts just fine and have some what good power, but I feel it's a bit weaker..... It has a tic around the sparkplugs.....

Changed the plugs today, and the growling noise got worse. In my head this means that it now has better spark as the old plugs was some what worn. And now the misfire and retarted timing is more notisable. Any truth to that?

As I can't find any bypass wire I can't confirm ignition with a ignition lamp. But I did a new vacuum test and it has a steady puls between 18 and 19 as to this site sugest retarded timing : http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

From the sounds of it, you have the newer EDI ignition system which cannot be set like the old systems could.

Take a read through the following thread:
EDI Engine Timing

That's the write-up I have been using. Still think I'm a tooth off.
Would it start an run if it was 180 off?

I can't take the old distributor apart anymore, the bolts has been tightened for the last time. So I think it's time for a new distributor.