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Engine performance issue
Hello guys,
Follow up on my recent thread about the engine shivering stalling and misfiring. It also shivers when trying to stop I replaced iat sensor, spark plugs and wires as well as filters (air and fuel) i also repalced the fuel pressure valve next to the spider. The car still hesitates sometimes or cranks long with black smoke. The scanner i connected threw p0113 code related to iat. I really don't know if the valve is defected or should replace the whole spider as when tested there was no leaks. Some threads i read here suggest a timing chain issue as well. Thanks for the help. |
Bring it to a mechanic to get it repaired
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Originally Posted by Billy1820
(Post 727792)
Bring it to a mechanic to get it repaired
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Originally Posted by Big_george
(Post 727789)
The scanner i connected threw p0113 code related to iat.
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Originally Posted by Tom A
(Post 727794)
So, what does it say the intake air temp is? Does it reflect real life?
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If it's getting bogus info about the intake air temperature, it's going to base fuel metering partly on that, which will make the mixture wrong. EGR would have nothing to do with it, but why/how did you delete the EGR?
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Originally Posted by Tom A
(Post 727796)
If it's getting bogus info about the intake air temperature, it's going to base fuel metering partly on that, which will make the mixture wrong. EGR would have nothing to do with it, but why/how did you delete the EGR?
What i am concerned of is should i change the pressure valve again? Or the whole spider? Or it has nothing to do with those? Honestly i am worried to spend more money on parts that do not make a difference. Thanks |
If it wasn't "tuned" for the missing EGR valve, you could have problems with detonation (knocking, or whatever you want to call it). If severe, it can damage your spark plugs and even pistons. You definitely want to do something about it before it gets to that point.
The pressure regulator and the rest of the fuel system are pretty easy to check. There's a sticky thread in one of the forums here that gives you step-by-step instructions. |
Originally Posted by Tom A
(Post 727796)
If it's getting bogus info about the intake air temperature, it's going to base fuel metering partly on that, which will make the mixture wrong. EGR would have nothing to do with it, but why/how did you delete the EGR?
Today i took it to a professional, he placed a gauge at the Schrader valve and asked me turn ignition on/off. So right after i turn off ignition the build up pressure goes away instantaneously. So he suggested that the pump is weak and should be changed. He also said the pcm might be bad or the iat has a short somewhere which is why it throws a code. But honestly i don't know if that has anything to do with shivering at cold starts and after a while (which goes away when the car heats up). As for the spider i watched him check for leaks and before replacing the valve the plenum was flouded with fuel which contaminated engine oil (had about 1 extra liter) so i changed that as well. |
Originally Posted by Tom A
(Post 727810)
If it wasn't "tuned" for the missing EGR valve, you could have problems with detonation (knocking, or whatever you want to call it). If severe, it can damage your spark plugs and even pistons. You definitely want to do something about it before it gets to that point.
The pressure regulator and the rest of the fuel system are pretty easy to check. There's a sticky thread in one of the forums here that gives you step-by-step instructions. What do you mean by it wasn't tuned? Should i get a new egr and let it run normally? I read alot of threads here that talk about how beneficial it is for performance to delete the egr. |
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