Nope, distributor is not in on the right tooth. Almost always the reason for a P1345. See post #3 for further explanation and how to correct. Forget the crank sensor and injectors and relearn - and put the distributor in right. Your problem is easily fixed.

ok ill move it in the morning and see where that puts me,
I noticed the scanner was telling me CMP retard was at -39. dunno if that matters
ill try to move it 1 tooth counterclockwise

just noticed you are in Indiana! Terre Haute myself!

L
Glad to hear your borrowed scanner reads CMP retard on your 1996!! Can you please review the scanner model one more time for my own reference. Yeah CMP retard should be 0 +/- 2 to be optimal but will run much better of you can get it below 6 or so.

Welcome to a fellow Hoosier!

Turned it 1 tooth, started backfiring...
2 teeth the other way and miss is gone!
At shop now to read it and do relearn

Glad to hear you're making progress. What is cam sensor retard value now? I assume the SES light is off. Don't attempt a crank sensor relearn if SES light is still on.

OK so 96 doesn't have a relearn according to their scanner lol
But no more codes and been running like a champ
I checked the cmp retard b4 i left it was at 16
Which is weird cause I thought I only moved it 1 tooth total and went from -39 to 16?
Is it something that needs tuned in the PCM??
Would the tool you recommended do that?

1996 certainly does have a crank sensor relearn but it's not going to affect a misfire one way or another (just your ability to detect misfires). But we definitely need to get that cam sensor retard closer to zero, and probably need to replace the cap/rotor if it has been jumping to the wrong terminal inside (that could be up to you). Are you able to loosen the clamp bolt and turn your distributor body, or is it locked in place by the factory hold-down clamp? Nothing needs "tuned" in the PCM. The tool I recommend will read the cam sensor retard correctly and is great for working on 1996 Blazers but it will not do a crank sensor relearn. I had to spend $350 on software (HP tuners VCM Scanner) and use a laptop and a hardwire OBD2 adapter before I could do crank sensor relearns. But I always use the bluetooth phone apps whenever possible - it's just so much more convenient. I always have the phone in my pocket and the little Bluetooth OBD2 adapter in the vehicle. I very seldom need to drag out the laptop. Please advise about your distributor hold down and if you can turn the distributor body or not..

it has the factory clamp down, im pretty sure it only gained 1 tooth but i could be wrong? iv read about people slotting the brackets to get a little bit of turn to them also?
I also noticed the scanner you recommended says it doesnt do ABS my wifes car has an abs light that comes up every so often, any preference on one that will do ABS?

i dont want to keep borrowing the shops scanner so im going to have to order one b4 i can take it any further