Hydraulic Valve Lifter Help
Thread Starter
|
Beginning Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 18
From: Gdansk
Hydraulic Valve Lifter Help
Hello everyone! So, I only had one hydraulic compensator knocking on the hot one earlier and only when the engine started for 1-2 seconds and silence. Always quiet on the cold. The oil was filled 10w40. I changed the oil and also filled 10w40 stopped knocking but not for long , then again started and only on the hot for 1-2, sometimes for 3-4 seconds and that’s all.
They advised me to fill in such oil as the factory recommends, that is, 5w30. I bought rinses, rinsed it and poured everything and poured new oil 5w30 and the knock disappeared and the silence was neither cold nor hot for two months until yesterday - but now he it knocks on cold and on hot silence. And it knocks so for 5-7 minutes yesterday and today it knocked, it knocked until it pressed the gas until 2 thousand and immediately silence. What do you advise to rinse the engine further with washes and change the oil or change the hydraulic compensator right away? Help!Thank you all for the answers.Sorry for my English :-)
They advised me to fill in such oil as the factory recommends, that is, 5w30. I bought rinses, rinsed it and poured everything and poured new oil 5w30 and the knock disappeared and the silence was neither cold nor hot for two months until yesterday - but now he it knocks on cold and on hot silence. And it knocks so for 5-7 minutes yesterday and today it knocked, it knocked until it pressed the gas until 2 thousand and immediately silence. What do you advise to rinse the engine further with washes and change the oil or change the hydraulic compensator right away? Help!Thank you all for the answers.Sorry for my English :-)
Last edited by Vadym Kaverzniev; Oct 21, 2019 at 10:39 AM.
Moderator
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 4,334
From: North Central Indiana
Hello everyone! So, I only had one hydraulic compensator knocking on the hot one earlier and only when the engine started for 1-2 seconds and silence. Always quiet on the cold. The oil was filled 10w40. I changed the oil and also filled 10w40 stopped knocking but not for long , then again started and only on the hot for 1-2, sometimes for 3-4 seconds and that’s all.
They advised me to fill in such oil as the factory recommends, that is, 5w30. I bought rinses, rinsed it and poured everything and poured new oil 5w30 and the knock disappeared and the silence was neither cold nor hot for two months until yesterday - but now he it knocks on cold and on hot silence. And it knocks so for 5-7 minutes yesterday and today it knocked, it knocked until it pressed the gas until 2 thousand and immediately silence. What do you advise to rinse the engine further with washes and change the oil or change the hydraulic compensator right away? Help!Thank you all for the answers.Sorry for my English :-)
They advised me to fill in such oil as the factory recommends, that is, 5w30. I bought rinses, rinsed it and poured everything and poured new oil 5w30 and the knock disappeared and the silence was neither cold nor hot for two months until yesterday - but now he it knocks on cold and on hot silence. And it knocks so for 5-7 minutes yesterday and today it knocked, it knocked until it pressed the gas until 2 thousand and immediately silence. What do you advise to rinse the engine further with washes and change the oil or change the hydraulic compensator right away? Help!Thank you all for the answers.Sorry for my English :-)
Last edited by LesMyer; Oct 21, 2019 at 02:54 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Beginning Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 18
From: Gdansk
Vadym, please advise the oil pressure at idle (please specify RPM observed) with engine completely warmed up (>30 min). Also oil pressure at 2000 RPM with engine completely warmed up. Finally oil pressure at 2000 rpm when engine is cold - first started. All values using 5W30 oil.
Pressure on cold and hot is excellent as in my opinion
Here is a photo taken by me when the engine is completely warm
Pressure on the cold 3/4 scale of the pointer, I will take a photo tomorrow
Moderator
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 4,334
From: North Central Indiana
Those two readings (hot idle, and cold maximum) are exactly what I would expect. So general oil pressure does not appear to be a problem.
I worry that you may have something similar to what I experienced. When I bought my Blazer I had a lifter collapsing and making the clacking noise at idle when completely warm. Raise the RPM some and it would quit making noise. General oil pressure was not so bad. It turned out that the oil pressure loss was localized to the #1 rod and #1 main bearings of the crankshaft. Because this was at the end of the oil galley furthest away from the pump, the local pressure loss there caused the front lifter to collapse. That said, I do not know if yours is the same situation. Just know that excessive bearing clearance and localized loss of oil pressure can cause lifters to collapse. Surpr4isingly my engine did not have hardly any bearing knock.
Just shut your vehicle off when the lifter is collapsed and making noise. Take the valve covers off, and check each of the rockers for excess clearance. To do this, with the engine at TDC of #1 compression stroke, check to see if you can push the rocker arms towards the pushrod/lifters (against spring pressure in the lifter) on exhaust valves of cylinders No. 1, 5 and 6 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 1, 2 and 3. Then turn the crankshaft 1 revolution and do the same for exhaust valves of cylinders No. 2, 3 and 4 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 4, 5 and 6. Note which lifter is collapsed. Replace it (or the full set) and see if knock goes away.
I worry that you may have something similar to what I experienced. When I bought my Blazer I had a lifter collapsing and making the clacking noise at idle when completely warm. Raise the RPM some and it would quit making noise. General oil pressure was not so bad. It turned out that the oil pressure loss was localized to the #1 rod and #1 main bearings of the crankshaft. Because this was at the end of the oil galley furthest away from the pump, the local pressure loss there caused the front lifter to collapse. That said, I do not know if yours is the same situation. Just know that excessive bearing clearance and localized loss of oil pressure can cause lifters to collapse. Surpr4isingly my engine did not have hardly any bearing knock.
Just shut your vehicle off when the lifter is collapsed and making noise. Take the valve covers off, and check each of the rockers for excess clearance. To do this, with the engine at TDC of #1 compression stroke, check to see if you can push the rocker arms towards the pushrod/lifters (against spring pressure in the lifter) on exhaust valves of cylinders No. 1, 5 and 6 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 1, 2 and 3. Then turn the crankshaft 1 revolution and do the same for exhaust valves of cylinders No. 2, 3 and 4 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 4, 5 and 6. Note which lifter is collapsed. Replace it (or the full set) and see if knock goes away.
Last edited by LesMyer; Oct 23, 2019 at 08:06 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Beginning Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 18
From: Gdansk
Those two readings (hot idle, and cold maximum) are exactly what I would expect. So general oil pressure does not appear to be a problem.
I worry that you may have something similar to what I experienced. When I bought my Blazer I had a lifter collapsing and making the clacking noise at idle when completely warm. Raise the RPM some and it would quit making noise. General oil pressure was not so bad. It turned out that the oil pressure loss was localized to the #1 rod and #1 main bearings of the crankshaft. Because this was at the end of the oil galley furthest away from the pump, the local pressure loss there caused the front lifter to collapse. That said, I do not know if yours is the same situation. Just know that excessive bearing clearance and localized loss of oil pressure can cause lifters to collapse. Surpr4isingly my engine did not have hardly any bearing knock.
Just shut your vehicle off when the lifter is collapsed and making noise. Take the valve covers off, and check each of the rockers for excess clearance. To do this, with the engine at TDC of #1 compression stroke, check to see if you can push the rocker arms towards the pushrod/lifters (against spring pressure in the lifter) on exhaust valves of cylinders No. 1, 5 and 6 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 1, 2 and 3. Then turn the crankshaft 1 revolution and do the same for exhaust valves of cylinders No. 2, 3 and 4 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 4, 5 and 6. Note which lifter is collapsed. Replace it (or the full set) and see if knock goes away.
I worry that you may have something similar to what I experienced. When I bought my Blazer I had a lifter collapsing and making the clacking noise at idle when completely warm. Raise the RPM some and it would quit making noise. General oil pressure was not so bad. It turned out that the oil pressure loss was localized to the #1 rod and #1 main bearings of the crankshaft. Because this was at the end of the oil galley furthest away from the pump, the local pressure loss there caused the front lifter to collapse. That said, I do not know if yours is the same situation. Just know that excessive bearing clearance and localized loss of oil pressure can cause lifters to collapse. Surpr4isingly my engine did not have hardly any bearing knock.
Just shut your vehicle off when the lifter is collapsed and making noise. Take the valve covers off, and check each of the rockers for excess clearance. To do this, with the engine at TDC of #1 compression stroke, check to see if you can push the rocker arms towards the pushrod/lifters (against spring pressure in the lifter) on exhaust valves of cylinders No. 1, 5 and 6 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 1, 2 and 3. Then turn the crankshaft 1 revolution and do the same for exhaust valves of cylinders No. 2, 3 and 4 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 4, 5 and 6. Note which lifter is collapsed. Replace it (or the full set) and see if knock goes away.
Today I went to the mechanic who repairs American cars and he told me to change the oil once more and before that I washed the engine with a special flush.
The fact is that when I changed the oil recently (5w30), then this sound disappeared for two months in general, and now it has appeared on a cold one.
Moderator
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 4,334
From: North Central Indiana
LesMyer,And did you have this sound too cold?
Today I went to the mechanic who repairs American cars and he told me to change the oil once more and before that I washed the engine with a special flush.
The fact is that when I changed the oil recently (5w30), then this sound disappeared for two months in general, and now it has appeared on a cold one.
Today I went to the mechanic who repairs American cars and he told me to change the oil once more and before that I washed the engine with a special flush.
The fact is that when I changed the oil recently (5w30), then this sound disappeared for two months in general, and now it has appeared on a cold one.
p.s. my great-great grandmother was from Gdansk (was some sort of seamstress for the royal court in 1800's) but I am mostly German. Family name was Huenkemeier until WW1 time in the USA - then Americanized and shortened to Myer by my grandfather.
Last edited by LesMyer; Oct 23, 2019 at 03:06 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Beginning Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 18
From: Gdansk
No, I did not have the noise when cold - only when fully warmed up and it was in late Summertime. Sure, you can try another oil change and any flushes you like. Please see post #1 here for a video of my noise which went away at 2000 RPM: https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...g-valve-87514/
p.s. my great-great grandmother was from Gdansk (was some sort of seamstress for the royal court in 1800's) but I am mostly German. Family name was Huenkemeier until WW1 time in the USA - then Americanized and shortened to Myer by my grandfather.
p.s. my great-great grandmother was from Gdansk (was some sort of seamstress for the royal court in 1800's) but I am mostly German. Family name was Huenkemeier until WW1 time in the USA - then Americanized and shortened to Myer by my grandfather.
p.s.In which years specifically? What documents have been preserved from those times?
I also want to go to America and live there
Moderator
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 4,334
From: North Central Indiana
I'll PM about the history in Gdansk
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post