MAF question...drive with it unplugged?
 

So I'm on my second Blazer and this one is a 2000 ZR2 I've had about a year now. It has always felt a bit slower that my '97, and seemed to lack power between ~1200-2500 RPM. If I hit it with WOT. If I drove normally and didn't mash my right foot, it would behave nicely. However, if I wanted to get a quick start from a light or pass someone on the road, it would always hesitate, shift slowly, and the struggle to get moving. It was like a dead zone of power. I'm not sure if I read this tip on here or on a different thread, like ZR2USA or something, but as I was tinkering on my Blazer the other day, I remembered a post about trying to drive it with the MAF unplugged. I thought I'd give it a shot.

https://i.imgur.com/BhWpmiX.jpg?1

Holy cow did it make a difference! It feels like a new truck! Plenty of power, no dead zones while accelerating, and sounds much healthier. The only other difference besides the CEL being on, is the thing now seems to shift at a higher RPM and the shift also seems much more stiff/abrupt. Even when I shift from P to R or D, it feels like it clunks and shutters the vehicle, which it did not do before I unplugged this sensor. Should I be worried about this? It ****s like my '97 did, it seems to snap off up-shifts like a much newer vehicle does, and sometime even chirps the tires between 1st and 2nd. Any reason I should NOT keep running it like this? Could I do permanent damage to something? I want to make sure before I start driving it 50miles round trip to work again. Also, what if any effect will this have on MPG?
THANKS!

Using a scan tool capable of viewing live MAF data will tell if there is a problem with it.

If the check engine light was not on before you unplugged it, I'd take the MAF sensor off and clean the elements with MAF cleaner. The wires are very small and very fragile, don't touch them. If that doesn't cure the problem, check fuel pressure and leakdown. Not a good idea to drive with it unplugged, plus you'll get lousy fuel mileage.

How will I know using the Scan tool with MAF data? What am I looking for to determine if there is a problem or not? I just cleaned MAP the day I did this, it made no difference. Both wires were intact, and I did not touch them, just sprayed them with cleaner. I went for a drive today, and it spins the rear tires freely on pavement and just feels awesome, but again, I don't want to damage anything by doing this constantly. I plugged it back in today, and stated driving, and the same sluggish performance; no more spinning tires at will, but of course no more CEL.

Engine idling, (650RPM) at normal operating temperature, (200F) closed loop operation, trans in park or neutral, all accessories off: MAF should be 4.6 grams per second. MAF frequency should be 2285Hz.

Plugged it in and checked. In Park at idle, closed loop at ~180*F and ~650rpm it reads at 5.3g/s and I have no idea where I can find the MAF frequency. I'm using Torque and a Bluetooth adapter.

we just had a 94 cadi towed in about a hour or so ago, car wouldnt run, finally got it to start but woud die out after like 3 seconds. checked fuel, spark, and security, finally unplugged maf and kept running, i took the maf out and sprayed it out and now the car runs fine.

i was just telling someone else the other day i never actually seen a maf caust a vehicle not to run

Coolant temp is low, should be 200F, possibly the thermostat is not closing completely. 5.3 g/s is a tad bit high. Does it set a DTC in memory? As abig84 mentioned, try cleaning the elements with MAF sensor cleaner. There could also be a small vacuum leak somewhere. In order to view MAF frequency, which is far more accurate, you'll need a scan tool capable of displaying in Hz.

its either a bad MAF or vacuum leak. Sometimes they are beyond cleaning. I notice the picture it looks like an aftermarket filter housing. Is it oil charged? and where does it suck air?

i was going to say this too.

sometimes the filters have too much oil and it gets sucked into the engine,thus covering the maf sensor. it can cause what you are experiencing.

the ecu not seeing the maf is telling the tranny controller to use full pressure. not gonna break anything.