No crank
Did you find a solution? Im having the same issue and didn't want to make a new thread. I did a 4l60e swap and replaced the safety neutral switch. (Didn't know factory added silicone on original and broke it). It was running before and have done everything you mentioned here.
I am sorry, I missed your 4/5 response.
These results suggest that the run from the crank fuse down to the trans neutral switch on the ppl wire and the run back up from the switch to the relay in the UHFB on the ppl/wht wire are both broken. They are probably in the same wire loom and sit next to each other. Did you try to follow that wire loom and make sure that there is no damage? Just to double check this, create a fused jumper from the battery positive post and apply that power to the ppl/wht wire after you remove that wire from the trans switch and if that turns the starter then replace that wire on the switch, pull the ppl wire from the switch and energize the switch tab with power and see if that turns the starter.
There are three circuits involved in turning the starter. The first is the main power cable from the battery to the starter and we know that this circuit is good because you can jump the starter with a screw driver. The second is the energizing circuit for the relay which is ign C fuse>ign switch>crank fuse>trans switch>relay coil>ground. We know we have problems in that circuit and I suspect a damaged cable in both directions to and from the trans if we have communicated clearly. We have not looked at the third circuit yet which is ign A fuse>relay contacts>ppl wire down to the small starter post. When the relay is energized by the start position from circuit 2 then this circuit routes 12v to the starter solenoid to engage the starter when the relay contacts are closed by the start switch position.
If you are sure that the relay is good then the next test would be to remove the relay and jumper the ign A source voltage socket to the relay socket that sends that power to the starter solenoid when the relay is energized to make sure that this circuit is good. The schematic does not label the pins but ign A fuse power should come in on 87 (you can check this with a volt meter after you pull the relay). That power should get routed to pin 30 when the relay is energized. Pins 85 and 86 should be the relay coil. A fused jumper between 87 and 30 sockets should engage the starter. This will simulate the relay contacts closing.
George
These results suggest that the run from the crank fuse down to the trans neutral switch on the ppl wire and the run back up from the switch to the relay in the UHFB on the ppl/wht wire are both broken. They are probably in the same wire loom and sit next to each other. Did you try to follow that wire loom and make sure that there is no damage? Just to double check this, create a fused jumper from the battery positive post and apply that power to the ppl/wht wire after you remove that wire from the trans switch and if that turns the starter then replace that wire on the switch, pull the ppl wire from the switch and energize the switch tab with power and see if that turns the starter.
There are three circuits involved in turning the starter. The first is the main power cable from the battery to the starter and we know that this circuit is good because you can jump the starter with a screw driver. The second is the energizing circuit for the relay which is ign C fuse>ign switch>crank fuse>trans switch>relay coil>ground. We know we have problems in that circuit and I suspect a damaged cable in both directions to and from the trans if we have communicated clearly. We have not looked at the third circuit yet which is ign A fuse>relay contacts>ppl wire down to the small starter post. When the relay is energized by the start position from circuit 2 then this circuit routes 12v to the starter solenoid to engage the starter when the relay contacts are closed by the start switch position.
If you are sure that the relay is good then the next test would be to remove the relay and jumper the ign A source voltage socket to the relay socket that sends that power to the starter solenoid when the relay is energized to make sure that this circuit is good. The schematic does not label the pins but ign A fuse power should come in on 87 (you can check this with a volt meter after you pull the relay). That power should get routed to pin 30 when the relay is energized. Pins 85 and 86 should be the relay coil. A fused jumper between 87 and 30 sockets should engage the starter. This will simulate the relay contacts closing.
George
Last edited by GeorgeLG; Jul 31, 2025 at 01:28 AM.
Ok so dropped the trans again found a couple broke wires repaired them put the trans back still no start at the key can still jump it at starter and have spark but no fuel will run on starting fuild havent checked the last stuff you sent I just seen this been busy with work and kids and just got time to work on it again



