Short and simple, not getting power to fuel pump. Will start and run by using starting fluid then it dies. Changed fuel filter and fuel pump. Checked fuel pump relay, it clicks when key is turned on. Changed injectors and oil pressure sensor. Fuel pump runs with a hotwire straight from the battery and vehicle will run fine.. I just want to know what else there is to check/ change to get it running as it should through the fuel relay... HELP!!! I'm at my wits end...

 

Have you done a fuel pressure leak down test

 

Not as of yet.. gotta find a pressure tester to use. After I turn of engine and disconnect the hotwire to the hotwire to the fuel pump leave it sit overnight it still has pressure at the schrader valve so I am assuming that it is still holding pressure..

 

It may have some but not enough, needs 52lbs to open injectors. If you smell gas you may have a leak or your spider under the plenum may be leaking. A quick check is to look in the throttle body by opening the blades. You wont see all but there should not be any shiny areas, it should be all black, shiny means leak cleaning off the carbon/ Carbon good, shiny bad

 

When I hotwire it the vehicle runs fine.. I'm trying to find out why I'm not getting power to fuel pump.. I think that I have plenty of fuel pressure from the pump. Would a bad fuel pressure sensor at the pump not allow it to get power from fuse panel/relay?

 

After the first two seconds of turning the key the VCM will cut off the relay until it gets an RPM signal from the CKP sensor. Does the pump do the 2 second prime? If so, crank your engine while paying close attention to the tach. Does the needle bounce or have any movement while cranking? Or does it stay rock solid bottomed out? If so, suspect a CKP sensor/circuit problem. Also, when you had it hotwired was the tach working. Lastly just because a relay clicks, doesn't mean it is good. One more, I'm assuming you had this problem before the pump change?

 

No power to wire going to the fuel pump. Swapped relays around with other known to be operational circuits. Tach operates like it should(I think)get readings while engine running. Yes the problem has been happening for a couple of months. When it started acting up(crank no start). I could jump start it from another vehicle and sometimes it start after a few tries other times it would take me a little bit longer...

 

Once it's running the oil pressure switch should keep the pump running even if the relay fails. Have you had your battery load tested? A battery on its way out can cause freaky stuff.

 

Brand new battery. The only reason I jump started it using another vehicle was because I was wearing down the battery trying to get it started. I'll try starting it with a jump start without the hotwire to the fuel pump from the battery later today. See if that works..

 

When you say hotwiring the fuel pump are you powering the fuel pump prime terminal by the relay in the fuse panel? If so then the next place to test is the connector for the pump assembly. The grey wire should show battery voltage and the black wire needs less than 5 ohms to chassis ground. My connector had been replaced at the dealer and I was not impressed with their work. Did you get a delco or delphi pump when you replaced it?

If you're not enthused to get back under there a $20 harbor freight fuel injection pump test kit can confirm if it's the pump or the regulator. Captain Hook's test procedure is spot on.