Yep pf47 is the one listed for a 2.2 cav. Im really wanting to know this works before putting axle back in to find out the filter wont come out. Anyone else?

I sure hope this works. Gonna do it since my axle is out and easy to access. I'm doing the RC lift so hoping that will give a little more room for the pf47 oil filter to fit in and out for oil/filter changes.
To be clear there is no need for a bypass valve adapter plate like the 5.7 sbc has that has the filter threads on it?

Just went out and looked at remote oil bracket assembly and I noticed there's a bypass built into it. I'm gonna check out getting a oil filter adapter with a built bypass and not just the filter threaded stud without bypass. The adapter should bolt up using the 2 threaded holes the cooler adapter uses. Anyone think of this that has bypassed the bypass.

Ok never mind removed adapter on block and found what looks like another bypass. Would of never thought there'd be one there but does make sense incase lines clogged to filter adapter. So gonna go with the stud and hope this works out. Thanks all for this forum full of info.

I got the fitting today and was a straight forward install for me. The short side went into block and I tightened it with a hex bit I had from a bit kit for brakes I had. The PF47 went right on and snugged up to block. I do have to mention I have my whole front suspension out and axle removed so made this mod simple. The filter isnt much taller than the line adapter so think it will work when doing oil changes.

Anyone think to change the filter more frequently than the oil due to having half the filtration capacity of the PF52 filter?

No need to remove any hard lines ...??
 

So, this thread is the MOST RECENT. Cripes I did a LOT of reading here/elsewhere to get "from there to here" Lol!
THIS, HOWEVER, DOES INDEED SEEM TO BE A "MOST EXCELLENT" APPROACH?!

Anyhow, THERE'S SOME "historical contraries";
I didn't take any of the metal tubing that runs to my oil filter off when I did mine. I just cut each factory crimp off and then went from there. TIP! - For the two that are right behind the radiator and above the splash shield, instead of taking the splash shield out (which is a bitch), just take the air box out and they are exposed and you should have quite a bit of room to get those two crimps that are underneath the air box. At least I have enough room. (I'm pretty small)
-and e.g. -
Remove your splash shield and go up from underneath. 6 15mm bolts and your there.
That's what I did. I took the fender well out. (Or the splash shield, same difference)
-and e.g. -
No need to remove any hard lines ...
-and &tc &tc. -

Not trying to be cute, but on MY 2nd Gen 4X4 ... Is it likely, and possible, that simply removing obstacles and replacing w/ brake tube and compression fittings (leaving everything hard-line ALONE) is simplest/quickest?? This thread "strongly suggests" that's TRUE ... PROVIDED there's"No need to remove any hard lines ..."

Y/N "answer" might be nice, and won't get to it until this Spring, so any advance warning (on this bit-of-a brain teaser) ... muchas gracias!

I bought a blazer that someone has deleted the oil cooler lines. However I can't for the life of me get the new filter in place to screw it on. It seems either the front driveshaft or the exhaust is in the way. Any tips?

Drop one end of the driveshaft? How did you get the old one out?

the crappy chain lube place destroyed the old one before figuring out how to install the new one. I have the shorty filter and everything. I'll try dropping the front drive shaft and see what happens

If it's really close, you might be able to jack the engine up slightly without disconnecting anything. Use a piece of wood under the oil pan with a floor jack and just take the weight off the motor mounts. You can probably gain 1/4 inch or so that way.