oil cooler lines
 

-sorry for the book i wrote-

(SHORT VERSION any advice on changing oil cooler lines?)

so friday night after work i started replacing my oil cooler lines which have been leaking for a very long time now. the first one i replaced where the lines from the filter housing to the radiator. then i began trying to replace the lines from the filter to the oil pan here is where my problems began... long story short my supposedly "Quick Fix" turned into horror as i was up until 4 AM and my blazer is still apart in my driveway. my questions are what size head is the bolt on the side of the hoses that go into the oil panand mybe a few tips to help easily get to it. i tried everything and i still failed i tried jacking up the oil pan like i've read for more clearance but it didnt budge. also how do you know when you have the clips in right for the hoses going into the oil cooler/radiator. after my failed attempt of removing the hose from the fiter to the pan i decided i would leave it alone for now because it was 3:30 and i had to wake up at 6 the next day for work. i checked the clips 3 or 4 times to make sure they where on right and from what i can tell they where fine but after i put in new oil and ran the engine for a sec the lower hose popped off and oil went every where it came of as i turned the enginge off and there was no harm done but i would like to now a for sure way of telling so i dont do agian today is my friday so i will be working on it tomoro any help would be appreciated thanks

Should be a 10mm socket for the nut/bolt that fastens the lines to the remote oil filter adapter on the block. A shallow socket on a wobble extension with another extension (total of ~14-18 inches of extensions) should get you there.

Which hose popped off? The lower one that runs into the cooler inside the radiator? If that is the case, the clips may be bent.

thanks swartlkk.i will try that later. yes it was the lower hose i got it back on but im not sure if i trust the clip or not when i go to the parts store in a little bit to get more oil i will try and find a new one. a friend of mine from work also offered me a garage to work on it in if i cant get it fixed hes dad owns a shop and said it would be fine to bring it there and use there stuff so if i cant get it today hopefully ill be able to soon. i didn't realize simple oil lines could be so difficult lol

With the quick connect fittings into the radiator, you have to make sure that there is NO tension on the lines once installed. With aftermarket lines, any tension on the lines can cause a leak or, worse, the line to blow off. If the lines don't line up perfectly, some adjustment is necessary (bend/twist/etc).

Also, take the clips & lay them on a flat surface. If you see any gap between the clip & the surface, either try to flatten the clip, or buy a new clip.

thanks agian swartlkk. i got the bolt off of the oil line going into the oil pan but there isnt enough room for the oil line to pull out. The fitting on the end keeps getting caught up between the transfercase and the engine. i was thinking unbolting the motor mount on the drivers side and seeing if i could lift the engine up enough to eaisly pull out the old oil line and install the new one. how do you guys do it?

That would be the front axle & the oil pan. :icon_wink:

The engine mounts can sag over time and decrease the clearance. Try placing a good 2x4 or 2x6 on the top of your jack and lift the engine up off the mounts slightly until you get enough clearance. If that doesn't allow enough clearance, then unbolting the mount would be the next thing to do. That should definitely allow for sufficient clearance.

i tried jacking it up wtih 2x4 under the oil pan but there was no play in the motor mount so tomoro i guess i will have to take the motor mount out thanks agian swartlkk i appreciate all your help. yes lol i guess the front axle i stoped working on it a few hours ago and was couldnt remember if it was or not

just wondering what the part is that the back oil lines go into i changed the lines but still have a drip and think that it is the seal for whatever the oil lines bolt into

It's an adapter block that bolts to the block where the oil filter typically would be if there were room for it. There is a seal on the top of it. It can be a pain to get to.

yeah it looks like it and I discovered a new problem while swapping the lines it looks like I have a leak coming from my water pump and my alternator:/ the problems never seem to end with his blazer

I plan to try lifting the engine high enough to allow the fitting to clear. If not I'll have to remove the motor mount. Super design from G.M.

If you need replacement clips for the radiator quick-connects, Dorman (Help! brand) has them as part number: 800-801

Is this how you replace the leaky lines? Mines leaking but no extremely bad...drips when not running...

Ive looked but dont think I can get into the small space to remove that one bolt for the lines.

Just did the cooler lines. The lines to the radiator are easy. Just remove the air filter box and lower skirt. The ugly are the lines that go to the motor. I also replaced the oring seal and gasket in the adapter housing. Bought all the parts online from GM for $150. Anyway you definitely wanna disconnect the motor mount and jack the motor up to get that line out. Removing the single long bolt going front to rear on the mount makes a world of difference. Just watch your fan shroud clearance when lifting the motor. I did jack it up under the pan with a piece of 2x4 between the jack. GM recommends jacking against a lug on the side of the block just below the exhaust manifold but it is not easy to access for jacking. The gasket inside that filter adapter was hard as a rock and stuck to the block side. Very challenging to clean. I attached a picture of a wheel that can be used for removing gaskets - no abrasives. Ended up using Permatex High tack spray to attach the new gasket to the housing before install. Next time if there is a next time it will come out with the housing.

I did this job on my son's 98 Blazer (4WD, 4DR) back in May of '09. I was able to get enough clearance by using the block of wood and jack on the oil pan method. I was wondering if it would be worth it to have the motor mounts replaced because I used the standard Dorman lines for replacements, (part #'s 625-001 and 625-100), and now, 3 1/2 years later, they are leaking again. This time around I plan on modifying the lines like I read on a thread here about this job. Also, does anybody have any advice on accessing the engine block adapter in order to change out that gasket? The service manual covers it but doesn't say what, if anything, has to be removed. I envy the guy who has the friend with the shop & lift. Seems like life would be much easier.
Here is an address to a discussion of the cooler line modification with decent pics. (Different vehicle but same idea)
http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/to...r-line-repair/

I did the adapter when I did the hoses. There is a gasket and an oring. The parts are cheap from GM. The gasket was hard as a rock and stuck to the motor side - hard to clean. The adapter has 2 bolts holding it to the block. Used high tack spray to hold the gasket to adapter during install.

line mod opinions
 

Here is another link to a way less expensive mod to the oil cooler lines. I was wondering if anybody on this forum had an opinion on using the screw type hose clamps. It doesn't look as nice but I think this guy's last post indicated that so far he has about 20 or 25,000 miles with no leaks. Repair your leaky oil cooler lines!! - S-SeriesForum.com
I already purchased new lines and this mod would be nice and easy. Any opinions?

I fixed my lines this way, but haven't run the engine much since I am doing other work to the Blazer. I didn't have the clearance to get a die grinder in to cut the old hoses off, so I used an old leather glove and a hack saw blade. It took a little longer, but I was also able to ensure that I didn't cut too far. It was pretty easy and only took about half an hour doing it in a parking lot.

I've done basically the same thing on several vehicles. Cut all 4 crimps off leaving the barbs exposed. I used a 1/2" compression to 1/2" hydraulic hose adapter. 2 pieces of 1/2" hydraulic line about 10" long each. Then had the local NAPA store crimp the hose to the adapter. Slide the adapters over the barbs and tighten 'em up. Oil pressure runs 80psi max, those hoses are good to 3,000psi, should be plenty ;) My own vehicle has gone 40K miles and 4 years without a leak, bone dry. All for about $60. OEM lines have a 1 year warranty, Dorman lines have a lifetime warranty, that's all fine and good, but I don't want to do the job again, even if the parts are free!

I ended up purchasing the Dorman lines new and then cutting off their hoses and using the transmission cooler line with heavy duty screw-type clamps. Cost me about $18.00 for the hose & clamps and about $70.00 for the lines. I'll be installing them when we get some nicer weather (upstate New York - not good for shadetree mechanics in the winter). I'm not sure how long my son's gonna own this thing but I will let this forum know how it holds up if he has it long enough.

I am putting this job off til warmer weather comes, this gives me time to prepare. I see three ways to reach the rear bolt, mine is 13mm. Through the wheel well, from under the hood, and from under the blazer. Which way was it done, by those of you who have done it. I have learned a lot by searching the forum. Since I have time to prepare, I would appreciate any helpful advice.

13mm 3/8" drive swivel socket, a 24" extension, and a ratchet. Sneaks right in there perfectly.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1362356460

Thanks, I was going to use a 20 inch wobble extension with shallow socket. Where did you find your swivel socket and from what direction is it easiest to reach?

I took the easy bolt out of the filter housing, then the 10mm out of the hold down, I used two 20 inch extensions and went for the hard bolt from where the oil filter is. I couldn't get socket to seat on head, tho I bought wobble extensions yesterday. It was too cold to try new things so I put it back together. It's only dripping I quart over 3000 miles, but there is nothin I hate more than an oil leak.

A wobble extension would be a second choice. A universal is too bulky. A 6 point swivel socket will sneak right alongside the oil cooler lines next to the block, and will get right on it. 12 point sockets are worthless for working on a vehicle, unless you want to round off bolts & nuts;) If that's your intention, they work great.

http://www.sears.com/search=9%2043204

Thanks for the link,it's on it's way. I've been searching for swivel sockets and they call it a flex

Swivel socket, flex socket, whatever ;) same thing. They come in handy for a lot of stuff... just make sure they're 6 point!

im trying to replace mine but I still have a leak where it connects to oil filter.i have a 99 chevy blazer.i bought mine from oreilys and it still leaks.i took off screw like five times today I gave up.two weeks ago I tried putting it on with no luck it was still dripping.i called a friend of mine and he said don't buy anything from orielys or autozone.he said anything like this u need to go to dealer bcause it comes with the kit.more money to spend for another one.

The swivel socket worked great, now the only thing harder to get to is the bolt on the motor mount. I have always thought myself to be a good mechanic, as I have always did all my own work. This project is making me rethink my skills. Any tips, or certain tools make this part easier?

The easiest way is hire it done ;) The cheapest way is to fight with the through bolt. No tricks on that one, it's a PITA for sure. The through bolt has to come out to raise the engine up so you can get the oil cooler line out. Doesn't have to move much, only about 1" at the most. That's the main reason I modified my oil lines, so I don't EVER have to replace the line again.