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Originally Posted by cleburne red
(Post 575778)
How is this going to work with a 4x4? There's no way for an oil filter to fit between the front differential and block. It's already darn near impossible to wiggle out the adapter block, and it is substantially smaller than an oil filter.
The oil filter number I have given is a bit shorter to not come in contact with the front shaft/differential. Once its all done, getting to the filter really is not a problem. The hardest part will be getting the old oil lines out, and the oil filter adapter on the block out, but with patience, it all can be done without unbolting anything or removing anything involving the drive line. swivel sockets, and extensions to get the adapter off, and then wiggling and twisting to get it out of there, as for the lines, some kind of saw to cut the lines into pieces. not that it matters, they are leaking anyways. so cutting them is not a problem. As for the holes that will be left in the radiator where the oil cooler lines used to go... not a problem there either. Just leave them, the top one will be hidden by the upper rad hose, the bottom one will also be hidden out of site. In the end, you will be left with a cleaner engine bay, no leaking lines, and an oil filter where it should be, with no problems down the road, win win win win. |
U could leave the front shaft out also as a option
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Originally Posted by richphotos
(Post 575780)
Look at my previous post, I just gave all the part numbers to do this properly, and without a problem of space. :icon_wink: There have been many blazer and typhoon owners that have done this conversion without a problem of space.
The oil filter number I have given is a bit shorter to not come in contact with the front shaft/differential. Once its all done, getting to the filter really is not a problem. Of course, with 250k+ miles, I'm sure my motor mounts have sagged somewhat, decreasing the clearance. One thing is for certain: mount the filter on the block, and you'll never have another leaking line again! :p |
Originally Posted by cleburne red
(Post 575865)
Yeah, I saw you posted the filter number, it just seems like it would still be super tough to get at every 3,000 miles. To me, seems like much less work to fix the lines properly and be able to more easily access the filter.
Of course, with 250k+ miles, I'm sure my motor mounts have sagged somewhat, decreasing the clearance. One thing is for certain: mount the filter on the block, and you'll never have another leaking line again! :p |
If you do oil analsis its mot uncommon to gO 10,000 miles between oil changes
Thats with full syentheric rotella t6 and a good wix oil filter |
It's still awkward to get to the filter with everything out of the way (SAS), because of the way the oil pan wraps around it. We used to repair a lot of the factory oil lines for the local GM dealer, but not so many anymore.
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Originally Posted by Diaita
(Post 575927)
It's still awkward to get to the filter with everything out of the way (SAS), because of the way the oil pan wraps around it. We used to repair a lot of the factory oil lines for the local GM dealer, but not so many anymore.
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i used tranny hose and plain ol adjustable clamps on the oem fittings...never a problem after that...been several years.
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Originally Posted by warthogdriver
(Post 575979)
i used tranny hose and plain ol adjustable clamps on the oem fittings...never a problem after that...been several years.
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Heck its getta take less then 50 psi usually shouldnt take much
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