^ I really thank you all for the replies. So, let me reply, and also share where I am at.

Tom A, that is pretty much where my engine is now. I took it for a few miles spin on the road today (about 5.) Near the end of the trip.. The noise seemed to have gone away. Of course, it always seems to come back when I let off the throttle, and sometimes gets loud and still "wants to stall" at a light with brake pedal (I cleaned up the butterfly valve.. has not actually stalled since but there is definitely a problem with the engine.) But yeah, it sometimes even seems to get better. Seems a LOT like it is "running on 5 and a half cylinders" is what it seems like to me.

I never should have SeaFoamed this thing as much as I did. I remember the exact time, where, after I did so, it would stall at lights. No noise and no codes, but. That's what did it. I am stupid. Oh well. Now that I have to pay for it, i'll think twice about doing it again or only do it mildly next time...

So, LesMyer, you are saying to spring for the Remanufactured?

So... also. I have "one more guy" I can call, to pitch the "replace an engine" idea... HOWEVER. There is an engine rebuild and machine shop about an hour from me. The truck, with the engine how it is, will never make it under its own power. (I still have to drive it to work 6 miles each way every day to get the money for all this, so, it has to last for some months longer. This WILL be corrected by June.. nice little goal.) Based on what was stated about the difficulty in removing an engine in and out (I remember it was somewhat easy on my 93, remember I had a Blazer about 5 years ago and now I have another one, same engine issue...) BUT I was thinking of getting it towed there, and just telling them, "Rebuild it, please." This would eliminate a few problems:

1. Selecting another, or used, engine.
2. The shipping of the same .
3. Where it is getting shipped to .
4. Who is doing it .
5. Add $900 labor ? !!! to cost of said engine.

Now... I MAY go to the "Service Center" here and just tell them... "Look, my Blazer needs an engine, how much to put in the one from the truck in the back?" But I DONT think that is a good idea because it would involve removing two engines, and putting one back in, at shop rates. So, as much as that would be the easiest... with LesMyer speculating a shop gets about $1500 in labor to put in another engine, plus the cost of the other engine!!?? It *almost* looks like a $100-$150 (cheaper rate) tow to the machine shop is my best bet, then have them tell me my options. Maybe things get "upgraded" along the way.

Without having X-Ray vision to see inside the engine, what I think happened: After getting the engine CLEAN with the SeaFoam, I went and did it MANY MORE TIMES, and one of the last times done was just the littlest bit too much.. Maybe a rod bent, maybe it simply spun a bearing (which is what i think happened. Not sure on a bent rod, still runs smooth) but now it is doing everything a jumpy rod did, on a Ford Expedition 5.4L had the same noise. And, after all the optimism, yeah, its Rod Knock. That truck ended up getting scrapped, rod knocking until the end...

Without having X-Ray vision to see inside the engine, what I think they will tell me needs to be done: GUARANTEED - Remove engine, replace bearings, rod journal bearings, etc etc.. Re-ground crankshaft (especially if one cylinder looks bad, as I suspect) what may also need to happen, I don't know: - overbore all cylinders, ????? -- How am I doing so far.

Also.. How can I check if it is a stuck lifter vs a rod ? I never did actually do that.

If it's a rod, it will knock at engine speed. If it's a lifter, it will knock at valvetrain speed (1/2 engine speed).

hmmmm....

Do you have a timing light? That will give you a reference for 1/2 engine speed. If it knocks at the same frequency that the light flashes, it's in the valvetrain.

I do have a timing light. Not sure which cylinder is Cylinder #1.

The timing light flashes at 1/2? So, that's the knock I want, lol?

I hate to keep saying the same thing over and over, but, I'm learning here. The truck still drives ALMOST as smooth as it did before? Still will stall if you're at a stop long enough with foot on brake. No exhaust smoke, no codes, have oil pressure, FAINT burnt smell from engine but not that bad.

hoping it is something simple.. and then to take it somewhere for the diagnosis. Maybe a best-case is the service center does the lifter - if it is that - puts on new plugs and wires, maybe does a compression test (is that even needed?) and maybe I avoided a bullet.

No matter what, its getting fixed. If it needs a new engine or a rebuild, then it's getting a new engine or rebuild.. I only get worried when I hear that "squeak" sound.

Here is a video of a lifter ticking (at idle) due to low oil pressure.

https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...g-valve-87514/

If you are going to overhaul the engine, yes I say go the Goodwrench remanufactured route. You get a warranty. For what you are getting it's actually cheaper.

Most inexpensive proper fix for bearings in a running engine is to remove your engine and install a "crank kit" (reground crankshaft and undersize bearings) while leaving the pistons/rods in place and the top of the motor intact. It's about $200-$300 in parts). If you drive it until you spin a bearing you can forget this option, since at least that rod/piston will then have to come out to be resized. If you rattle a main bearing, the block should be line honed - but not everyone always does that (or feels it needs to be done - but that is what the machinist will tell you).

Spinning cranks in with pistons in place is not an easy repair. Very easy to ding up the crank with all those rod bolts or get dirt/other junk in the bearings as the crank is lowered into place. The engine absolutely has to come out and be upside down on an engine stand. If you opt for this, plan on timing gears/chain as well. I have done it a number of times, the most recent on my race truck a year ago to freshen the bearings and polish the crank. In your case I would do a leak down test to see how worn your rings and valves are before planning just a bottom end repair.

It doesn't really matter which plug wire you put it on. They'll all flash the same speed. You can move it from wire to wire if you want until it "syncs" with the knock.

Yes, knocking and flashing at the same speed is a good thing.


I've replaced a crank kit once, on an old 360 Ford that broke the crank in two pieces (and still ran!) and it's pretty much what Les described. I put pieces of rubber hose over all the rod bolts to protect the crank journals, and I held all the rods toward the outside of the block with rubber bands to make it a little easier.

Let me go fnd the timing light and see what I can get it to tell me.

Here is from less than an hour ago.

yes, sometimes all noises go away completely. I do not drive with the radio on...

https://youtu.be/CMHdNj8WeOQ