Engine removal help
#1
Engine removal help
I left a shop rag in the engine block while changing my intake manifold gasket and it has made its way down to the oil pan. Time to pull the engine to get it out. I have never done anything like this before and could use all the info & tips I can get so please tell me what you know. I'm using you guys and my Chilton automotive repair manual to guide me so no tip is to small. 1998 blazer 4x4 vin W automatic four door 4.3L v6
#2
Masking tape! Label everything with masking tape. Most things cannot be plugged into the wrong places, but it helps to know where things go. Just write on the roll of masking tape and then wrap the component. You can even pre-wrap things and then snap a picture before you remove it.
You'll start with wiring removal. Then you'll get to the wholesale disassembly. It may be easier to drop the transmission out the bottom and then lift the motor out the top. It all depends on what you have on hand to use. The bellhousing bolts are easiest if you have the back end of the transmission dropped down. Just remember to remove the distributor before you drop the back of the trans down unless you had it on your list of things to replace! LOL
And because you have starved the motor for oil, I would recommend tossing new bearings at it to make sure you have a fresh motor when you are all said and done.
You'll start with wiring removal. Then you'll get to the wholesale disassembly. It may be easier to drop the transmission out the bottom and then lift the motor out the top. It all depends on what you have on hand to use. The bellhousing bolts are easiest if you have the back end of the transmission dropped down. Just remember to remove the distributor before you drop the back of the trans down unless you had it on your list of things to replace! LOL
And because you have starved the motor for oil, I would recommend tossing new bearings at it to make sure you have a fresh motor when you are all said and done.
#3
As I mentioned in your other post there is a ground/bond cable on the back of the passenger side head, it's real tight quarters there. Also I think there is a bracket that holds the fuel lines,if I remember correctly. Check to make sure all those little do-hickies are undone before you try to lift the motor out, I know I was suprised how much stuff GM could cram between the engine and firewall.
One more thing if you live where you have to have the emissions checked, that white smoke you said was comming from the exhaust was coolant. That can ruin the cat, it leaves a residue that won't burn off,and may run good but not pass.
By the way what second language did you decide to learn for your back up cussing? Lol and good luck!
One more thing if you live where you have to have the emissions checked, that white smoke you said was comming from the exhaust was coolant. That can ruin the cat, it leaves a residue that won't burn off,and may run good but not pass.
By the way what second language did you decide to learn for your back up cussing? Lol and good luck!
#4
couldn't have said it any better myself Kyle.
masking tape, marker, & a camera. three of the most needed tools for removing an engine (ok, the last one can be over looked). done removals dozens of times, and i still label things-makes it a lot easier when re-installing stuff @ 4am!
only point i would say to definately do, si drop the trans out the bottom first. the damn oil pan gets snagged on the front diff. i learned that this Spring, when i spent 1/2 an hour trying to jump up and down on the front of a truck i stripped when the cherry picker couldn't pull the engine out. less than 10 minutes later, and i had the trans sitting on the ground, and the engine pulled over the rad support.
tried a short cut, and it cost me.
masking tape, marker, & a camera. three of the most needed tools for removing an engine (ok, the last one can be over looked). done removals dozens of times, and i still label things-makes it a lot easier when re-installing stuff @ 4am!
only point i would say to definately do, si drop the trans out the bottom first. the damn oil pan gets snagged on the front diff. i learned that this Spring, when i spent 1/2 an hour trying to jump up and down on the front of a truck i stripped when the cherry picker couldn't pull the engine out. less than 10 minutes later, and i had the trans sitting on the ground, and the engine pulled over the rad support.
tried a short cut, and it cost me.
#5
cool keep the info coming lol. jeeze this sucks
#6
Yup it does. You will want to change the freeze plugs while the engine is out. It can be done with engine in but then we're into that language thing again!
#7
thank God for that universal language we all know! hahahaha.
#8
You mean "$*~%$$!!!"? I think that's the one for motor mounts!
#9
cool keep the info coming lol. jeeze this sucks
let us know how it's going.
#10
why? they're probably the easiest thing on the job.
i also forgot to mention to you dunontime, i alway Ziplock bag and label the bolts/nuts when disassembling everything. been doing it forever. probably started doing it right around the time they were invented, hahahahaha! personally, i think this is why Sharpie's were also invented.
i also forgot to mention to you dunontime, i alway Ziplock bag and label the bolts/nuts when disassembling everything. been doing it forever. probably started doing it right around the time they were invented, hahahahaha! personally, i think this is why Sharpie's were also invented.