1993 Blazer Engine swap issues
 

After throwing a rod in my 350 I decided to do something I hope was not a bad mistake. I purchased a 350 dated 1974is which was built pretty strong with heavy crank, roller rockers and more. I finaly got it swaped out but now am having some issues with smooth running.
I was told I had to stay with the TBI because of the electronics but there are 2 issues with this. The old block has no port for the knock sensor and the new manifold has no port for the egr. Can this be overcome easily?
Would I be better off to go get a Holly 650 and put on it with a high preformance manual dist. and let the computer just tell me everything is wrong?

you probably dont even need the computer anymore since you are just using a carb'ed engine. i did a similar thing to a 95 s10 if you try to hook up to the computer it just says error. if you have emissions in your area it might cause a problem. i dont know if it will have any effect on your transmission too though

No comp is going to lead to ABS issues if equipped and if you use the 700R tranny shifting issues. You would have to dump the ABS swap the tranny for a 350 or 400 to match your older 350 SB and then go carb for fuel. In essence go old school in a newer vehicle. My 93 K5 has a brand new built up SB in it and it runs a TBI but it has custom built injectors, custom programmed chip and a lot of other goodies to make it run smooth. The only issue I have noticed is a slight surging when cruising at say a certain speed for awhile. You feel it your ass but don't see any fluctuation in the tach or the speedo. Some think it may be the cam being felt (214/204) if you give it a bit more throttle it just pulls on like nothing is the matter.

SS

Crap
 

Well I do have a 4L80E tranny so it looks like I am up a creek without a paddle. Until I can come up with another grand to get a TCU and Carb

Ok, here is the latest
 

Well I went ahead and pulled the top off of the motor, took the old intake manifold from the original 93 blazer engine and bored out the center two of the intake manifold bolts so I could get the angle that the older blocks require. I decided what the heck, its only time.
I got it put back togather and it runs quite smoothe at idle but I have a few issues.
1. The original engine had to idle around 800 rmp or I would get a check engine light. The older, built motor has to run at about 1500-2000 or I get the check engine light.
2. It seams I had to retard the timing off of TDC to get it smoothe.
3 Heavy carbon smell
4. When I put it in gear it drops way down on the rmp and wants to die so I have to double foot it on stops.
5. It seams that unless the idle is way up over 2000 rmp my breaks are really stiff like there is no power breaks.
6. The motor has roller rockers, someting I am not use to and they seam to rattle when it is running. Is this normal?

Ok here's a few things your going to need to do. Number one is the stock computer chip will not run or shift the engine correctly if the motor is or has been built up. Mine has a 204/214 cam ported and polished 194 heads along with roller tiped rockers and it wouldn't even think of running on the stock chip. I'll get you the place that did mine. But you may nee your injectors rebuilt as mine were. Again custom built injectors as well. With built up engines it not just a drop in and go when running TBI.

SS

By the way my in drive idle is set to 495.....it shakes my 93' K5 really nice.

SS

Oh and my roller tips rattle just a tad at cold start but that's it. You may need to have the rockers adjusted if you have rattling under normal running.

SS