Just acquired - Few small problems
 

Hey guys.
I'm new here, this is my first post and I'm a bit of an outsider, I just brought an '81 GMC Jimmy, I figured it's basically the same so I hope someone can help.
Firstly, its a manual running the 4-speed box but I have a problem with the clutch, it's really hard work to press fully down and it has to be pressed fully down or its still riding the clutch. Even just up a half inch off the wall and the truck is twitching trying to move but its damn hard to keep it down after 10 mins of driving. What could be causing this? How can I fix it?
Secondly, theres an alarming amount of play in the steering wheel, probably close to 6 inches before tension either way, so bad that the truck drifts on the highway - How can I sort this out?
And thirdly, not so crucial, but the rear power window in the tail gate won't go up or down - when I press the button I can hear the motor running trying to work its magic but nothing happens.. Any ideas?
Any and all help is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Jamie

Is the clutch a linkage type clutch or hydraulic? If it is a linkage type clutch, it could be binding up in the linkages or it could be a bad throwout bearing on the pivot arm. The throw out bearing could be the issue with both linkage and hydraulic type setups. If it is hydraulic, it could be a problem with the slave cylinder or the master cylinder for the clutch.

If hydraulic, when was the last time you checked the level of fluid in the reservoir for the clutch master cylinder?

For the steering, check the rag joint. It is located at the steering box where the intermediate steering shaft mounts to the steering gear box. If this is shot, you will get this type of play. If that is not it, the steering gear box may have excessive slack in the reciprocating ball assembly. Adjustments can be made, but if done incorrectly, it can result in a blown steering gear box.

About the power window, remove the access panel on the tailgate from the inside. You should then be able to access the drive cable. You can take a drill and connect it to the end of the drive cable that comes off the motor. If the window moves when you power up the drill, then the problem is with the motor somewhere. If it does not move, then the cable is the likely culprit.

Thanks for getting back to me.
As far as I can tell, the clutch is the linkage type you mentioned. Where and what should I look for in relation to it binding somewhere? How would I know if its the throw out bearing and if it is that, could someone change that at home or would I need a specialist?
One last quick question concerning the steering - what do I look for to determine whether or not the rag joint needs replacing?

Have someone turn the steering wheel while you watch where the steering shaft connects to the steering gear box. If you see a lot of play here, then the rag joint is bad.

To replace the throw out bearing, you will need to remove the transmission. As far as twisted linkages go... I do not know how to describe how they can get twisted or how to tell. I can tell by looking at them and watching them move, but it is very difficult to describe...

Ok so I took a look at where the steering column meets the steering gear box and I can move the steering column on my own from under the hood, seems to move fine without play into the steering box. The truck was stationary and I managed to move the column without the wheels moving and theres a joint about 3 inches up from the steering box which moves the same amount as the column, then it goes into the box. Does that mean the gearing in the box has the excessive slack that you mentioned? If so would you recommend I get it adjusted by a professional?
As for the clutch linkage, theres what looks like an adjustable bolt outside the transmission housing... Would tightening that up a little further stop the clutch from biting so soon? I can't see it doing anything for the weight of the pedal though... What do you think?
As a side note, I read yesterday about guys fitting some kind of "hydro-assist" to the clutch, is that worth considering? And how difficult is the conversion?
Sorry about all the questions by the way but this is all a bit new to me haha.

The adjustable bolt you see is to adjust where the clutch engages. As for the feeling of it I have t agree with the bad throwout bearing, as it was on mine, but also on mine the retainer clip for the throwout bearing busted so the clutch would never fully disengage when you pushed it in.

just wanted to give my 2 cents worth. as far as your clutch problem it could also be your cable from your pedal to the clutch fork. i had the same problem with a vehicle and broke 2 quadrants before i figured out the issue