Learned so much already, few more ?'s =D
 

Well through this forum and googling (how i found this place) ive learn how to fix some minor problems on my 1991 K5 Silverado. Just got this I'm the second owner and it has 150k miles. Such problesm ive learned to fix include - Changing heater resistor to fix the high only issue. Replace the signal/wiper lever (just confirmed some things). I haven't bought a chiltons type manual yet but I have some issues that need attention. Cant pass my city emissions at 2500rpm check. So far all I have done is replace the thermostat/water pump/radiator. (was all shot) Next im going to change the plugs and wires. Anyone know the recommended space on the plugs? Also thought about the rotar cap? Been awhile .. 10 years since I messed with one on my 88 iroc, Can ya just slap a new top on the distributor without pulling it and having to re-time the engine? Also thought of the EGR and PCV where are these? any pics or help/link to another thread would be awesome. Also any other parts that would help.Thanks guys:icon_bike:

All that you mentioned are pretty much plug and play as far as install.
Spark Plugs: #CR43TS GAP=0.035"
I would recommend you do the wires 1 at a time so as not to confuse where they go:icon_wink:
As far as passing emissions test
The EGR valve is on the intake and looks like a flying saucer.https://pontiworld.com.au/usgmsp/images/EGR17113408.jpg
The PCV valve is on the valve coverhttp://www.streetperformance.com/ART...alve_large.jpg
I would say to replace air cleaner(if dirty),
o2 sensor,http://www.autoguide.net/apf/images/...8911225ylh.jpglocated on exhaust pipe,
and if that doesn't do it for you then maybe the cat needs replacing.

Yea I found the PCV today when i did the plug and wires, didn't replace it just air nozzled it, also found that egr when doing the plug/wires, gonna go replace those. After I did the plug and wires it was smoking bad at first and it had been sitting awhile so i put a new tank of gas and gumout in it and the exhasut was shooting black carbon? water out until it warmed up. thanks for the repy and pics I really appreciate:icon_angel: it

The smoking probably is altogether different problem. You stated it had been sitting a while and this is common for almost every conventional (non-OHV) engine with some age to it.
Most likely the valve seals are shot. Is this detrimental to the engine-----No, but it will smoke like hell when you first start it and (may) foul the plugs over time. How did the plugs look when you took them out?

All the plugs didn't look too bad except for one, the rear passenger side plug was fouled black bad, I also changed out the o2 sensor which was also fouled bad. I hate emission standard in my city failed twice now. This time they stated the check engine light came on during a "long test" then turned off so the IM test had to be aborted

So the first thing I did to this blazer was change the oil/water pump/thermostat/radiator. Went to IM (emissions test) and barley failed the Co potion. IM tech said get a tune up. So I replaced plugs wires after that it started smoking even more and wouldn't get through an IM test because it smoked too much. I did it 1 wire 1 plug at a time and even double checked the firing order. Then went for round 2 IM test.... failed yet agian. I then replaced the o2 sensor, air filter, pcv. Went for round three and failed :icon_doh: I did notice that my plug was a little loose on the coil could that of ruined the coil and made this happen? I know the one cylinder I was worried about #8 has compression cause i tested it with my finger :icon_wink: then let the plug wire shock me:icon_razz:. Im not having good luck with this baby and kind of feel like I want to just have the darn engine/tranny pulled and both overhauled to give this engine a facelift. Any ball park on what that would cost? 4000 or so maybe? Thanks again for any help guys:icon_hyper:

..wait, what's/where's the turn signal/wiper lever thing?? lol I've been trying to search and read everything on here I can but don't remember that one.

Sorry, I can't help ya any mine sat for probably 5 years and blows white smoke the whole time it runs...now I just have to figure out what the water/moisture if from.

Hey Alaska, what kind of heater problem did you have and where did you find the resistor?

look into "seafoam"

search it or go into the general tech section and read the "how to"

it should flush a buch a crud out of your fuel system/engine.

burn the hell out of it, shoot smoke for about 10-30 minutes after, and you should be a lot better off. it will halp with water in the system as well as "build up"
:icon_shrug:

Yo SwatMedic, are you part of a civilian law enforcement group? if so, which one? hit me up via PM when you find this :D i would like to chat about making the switch from military to civ and already have SRT and EMT-B...

The heater has hi/lo/med. My problem was the heater only worked on hi which is basically full power to the motor. To get the motor to work at lower speeds resistors which limit the power to the blower motor are used. The part is under the hood on the top of the housing with wires on it that connect to prongs. The base of it is like a triangle shape. Are you having some issues?

On a diffrent note Ive decided to throw a new 300hp 350 into the baby :icon_band: