First of all I have posted before and thanks for everyones help. I have a 1985 blazer 305 with Carter AFB carb. It was real sluggish and would stall for no reason. I rebuilt the garb which was a mess. It ran better but would stall at WOT. I replaced the distributor which also was in bad shape. Once again it ran better but now it has begun to stall during slow sharp turns (such as parking) and still will stall at WOT. I believe it is running lean I can push the choke plate down or cover the carb with my hand and it runs better.

I think this is all points to a vacuum leak???

If so have hoses plugged and unplugged everywhere. I still have the vacuum diagram under the hood but the previous owner has bypassed or unhooked most of the emissions stuff. I have it registered as an antique so I am not worried about emissions but I just want it to run right. EGR has been removed. Just trying to figure out what is needed and not needed.

 

sounds like bowls set too low or jets are too small. pull a few plugs. are they fouled?

How did you set the fuel mixture screws? screw em back in (dont tighten too hard you can crush em) and back em out 2 turns and try it. if its doing better keep increasing by half turn until it starts running worse,then turn back a half turn. test drive each time you mess with em. under load driving is different then at idle.

 

Yeah that is what I originally thought the floats were off as well but it never stalled while doing sharp slow turn until last few days. I have done that with the idle screws. I have adjusted and readjusted the idle screws.

Also I had to re do the above post and left out it knocks (got better after replacing distributor) under heavy load, which is a symptom of carb problems, vacuum leaks or distributor problems.

 

Well I checked my sharp steering theory, I thought a vacuum leak might be causing it to stall during the power drain of the power steering. I put it in drive, reverse and turned the wheel each way, and yes the rpm would go up and down but it would only stall if I was actually moving. So I have been putting it off but I went ahead and pulled the carb. The float heights were way off! One was to high and one to low! Should of evened eachother out ha ha! I guess they should add rebuilding carbs to the warning label of beer cans.

So chris015 looks like you might be right on along with several other people who have told me the same thing.

Gonna find some gaskets today and put it back on hopefully today.

 

ha cool. Beer does indeed need a warning label for this kinda stuff.

 

Not it does same thing. Stalls at slow sharp right turn, knocks under load and dies at WOT. While adjusting the carb I noticed after turning the idle mixture screws 1 1/2 out I can turn them out very far without any effects.

I replaced and plugged vacuum lines, I am stumped. Guess will have to eventually make that dreaded trip to the mechanic.

 

What have you done to your distributor? Anything?
Knocking under load, or pinging is either bad gas or timing.
Doesn't really explain the stall when you turn sharp but sounds like you have more than one thing going on.

 

I replaced the distributor, which it needed badly.

 

And how is the timing set?

 

I have tried the stock setting 4, 8 and 10. It drive better at the higher but doesn't solve the problem. As I said the distributor was fried and after replacing it it only knocks under extreme load, where it was knocking at cruising speed. Everything I do needed to be done and makes it better but this stalling while turning sucks, I have almost hit some stuff turning.