Potential Buyer Advice/Tips?
 

Hi y'all! I'm going to check out a couple of old Blazers tomorrow in Fort Worth, TX and wondered if y'all have any advice or tips. Anything I should avoid or look for? I'm looking for a 2nd daily driver for on-and-off road. Wanting to spend under $1000.

I found this one, an '89 S-10 Blazer, auto, 4x4, 160k miles, clean title for $800. He says its only issue is the door handles (one won't open from inside, the other from outside), but if I want it, he can fix it while I wait.. Is this something I can fix myself? Just joined the forum so I can try to research after this post. What else should I pay attention to?

When buying cars, I usually check the outside, inside, under the hood (just looking for anything that looks wrong), check fluids, check how it sounds and drives. I'll want to check the 4wd on these..

I also found this '84 CUCV M1009 K5 Blazer for $700, but its bill of sale only, no title. He says its registered in his name, so I printed out a blank Title Application, Vehicle Transfer Notification and Bill of Sale to have seller sign for me. I only asked about the title stuff- surely this one has 4wd too?

I'm basically looking for something safe and reliable that'll drive me in & out of town and around the farm. Would either of these work? Any advice welcome, because I'm a Blazer newbie (I've driven trucks for years and own a couple of cars).

Thanks in advance!!

Im going to be honest with you but a $1000 is not going to get you a truck with out any problems

Like they say you get what you pay for

when i look at any kind or truck/car i check the fluids , how it drives, sounds , shifts and all the other features it has

No title no sale in my opinion too many risks. if they want to sell it they need to apply for a lost title first if they even legally have one that is..

Door handle issues boil down to, if the door can open and close using one of the two handles (inside / outside) it can be fixed. Nothing more then two handles with rods held on by clips leading to the latch inside the door.

Either a clip is missing and the rod is disconnected (part store help section) or the handle portion that hooks to it is broken (same as above or junkyard) really easy to do the only issue is room to get to everything since its inside the door.

Up in Canada we dont have a separate bill of sale and title... The registered owner is the owner, period... But if you have this form you can apply for the title with, then I would jump on that K5 in a second. I dont know much at all about them, but that sounds like a military spec truck, in which case it probably has 3/4 ton axles, and heavier duty driveline, and will be sans creature comforts like a stereo and AC and power anything. Swartkk is our resident K5 weenie, he can prolly tell you anything you need to know about them.

Anything under 1993 I wouldnt pay more than 500 for, except if it looks gorgeous... Its that simple, they just arent worth any more.

Door handles not working is 99% of the time the rod has jumped out of the connector cause a little plastic clip was 20 years old and degraded... The clips come in packs of 10 for a couple bucks, yes you can totally do it yourself, or ask us how to get a hand :)

We dont drive these trucks cause they are reliable and live long and breakdown free lives... We are enthusiasts around here. We fix them because we love S-series, also cause the parts are cheap mostly, and the junkyards are full of them. You will want a Vortec over the TBI engine, its got much more power. The Vortec says just that on top in orange letters.

Things you should watch for:
-Fuel smell in the oil/overfull oil on a Vortec engine (this will be a 50-250 fix)
-Smooth idle, good wide open throttle accelleration with no sputtering or hesitation.
-Turn some tight corners while accelerating and listen for 'howling' coming from the backseat area (the rear diff)
-Engage the 4WD and make sure its locking in OK.
-Listen for clicking from the front axles when turning, and accellerating. Also look at the cone boots that cover the CV joints for tears and leaking.
-"Check Engine" and "ABS" light are not lit up.
-Major oil leaks - the oilpan area mostly as you cant get the pan off without major dissassembly to repair. Minor leaking should be fine if you check the oil often. The difference. Major leaks look wet, minor leaks look like oily area with dust allover it.
-Condition of the tires. A good used set can be had for about 200 bucks on the buy/sell ads.
-Clunking and looseness of the front end.
-Run it up to temp and check leaks. Coolant smells sweet like candy if its leaking.
-Rust shouldnt be much of a problem in Texas I would think...
-Have a good look around for 10 minutes and try all the windows, A/C, heater, seat adjusters and belts, lights etc.

Dont let these things deter you though - let these problems knock some money off the price :) So if you go look at a really nice Blazer, but it clunks real bad and needs tires, then offer him 350 bucks instead of his 700, explain that you gotta get tires and probably front end parts and haggle from there. If its really nice, and you like it alot, try for 500 and haggle from there. Dont let a check engine light scare you off either if you can type proper english and arent scared of a little diagnosis, we can help get ya running proper.

All in all, you will probably have to throw a couple hundred bucks at it. But most of us here can tell you that you can ratbag the sh*t out of it and it will always want to drive you home still. Mine has tackled the motocross washboards, its been jumped many times, scraped bottom, been stuck, and she still wants to rip trails when she can.

From my experience, here is an estimated price of parts doing it myself. I usually just buy my stuff from NAPA

Replace front brake calipers, rotors, pads, lines - $150-200
Rear brake drums, shoes, springs, and cylinders - $100-150
Front end - 2 uppers, 2 lowers, 2 inners, 2 outers, idler, pittman - $225
A front wheel berring on 4WD is about $150 each side.
Four shock absorbers - $35ea for cheapos, 50-70 for premium brands.
Tune-up - plugs, cap, rotor, wires(optional) PCV, serpentine belt, throttle and sensor cleaning - $200
Front CV axles are about 150 each side.

And I didnt type all this for you to buy a Blazer and NOT show us what you got after :)

Thanks, you all!

I know an old vehicle will need stuff replaced.. My cars are a '93 and a '98.. parts will get old and wear; that's expected.

I'm debating over the title issue. Dad's coming with me. If the '84 is really registered in the seller's name, transferring shouldn't be an issue with signed title application and bill of sale. Worst case scenerio, I'd have to get a "bonded" title for $150 more (that's if the vehicle is really in his name).

If I come home with one today, you'll definitely see more of me :) Car forums have been helpful to me, so I join one for each vehicle I own.

The S-10 blazers start at around $600 in DFW and all the K5 blazers are well over $2000 for anything ride ready. The K5 guy having no title says that's his reason for selling so cheap. For driving at the farm only, I wouldn't need it titled, but I'll be driving 30 miles from city to farm and back, so I would need it registered..

Again, thanks you all for the advice. When I get back, I'll reply and let you know what happens :)