Thinking about priming my blazer
So im really tired of my truck being red...
im thinking about priming it black piece by piece...
and just leaving that way until i get ready to have it painted..
and possibly doing some bondo work as well.. mainly the side holes that
im thinking will be left when i take off the side moldings and anything else
what do you guys think about this idea?
i think it will look nice if i do it right...
Any ideas on techniques and products i should use?
im thinking about priming it black piece by piece...
and just leaving that way until i get ready to have it painted..
and possibly doing some bondo work as well.. mainly the side holes that
im thinking will be left when i take off the side moldings and anything else
what do you guys think about this idea?
i think it will look nice if i do it right...
Any ideas on techniques and products i should use?
I'm not much of a painter, but I will leave you with this, if you are thinking of a panel by panel prime leading up to a new paint job know that:
1) any dings dents chip and scratches that occur on the sanded and primed area will have to be RE-done
2) Primer is primer. It does not SEAL the metal like paint. it will allower for rust to grow in a hurry if left in the elements. You are in denver. it's almost full on winter...
3) the side molding is held on by 2 way adhesive, spyder wire style fishing line and a heat gun = FTW! then goo gone the residual and BLAM, debadged!
1) any dings dents chip and scratches that occur on the sanded and primed area will have to be RE-done
2) Primer is primer. It does not SEAL the metal like paint. it will allower for rust to grow in a hurry if left in the elements. You are in denver. it's almost full on winter...
3) the side molding is held on by 2 way adhesive, spyder wire style fishing line and a heat gun = FTW! then goo gone the residual and BLAM, debadged!
I'm not much of a painter, but I will leave you with this, if you are thinking of a panel by panel prime leading up to a new paint job know that:
1) any dings dents chip and scratches that occur on the sanded and primed area will have to be RE-done
2) Primer is primer. It does not SEAL the metal like paint. it will allower for rust to grow in a hurry if left in the elements. You are in denver. it's almost full on winter...
3) the side molding is held on by 2 way adhesive, spyder wire style fishing line and a heat gun = FTW! then goo gone the residual and BLAM, debadged!
1) any dings dents chip and scratches that occur on the sanded and primed area will have to be RE-done
2) Primer is primer. It does not SEAL the metal like paint. it will allower for rust to grow in a hurry if left in the elements. You are in denver. it's almost full on winter...
3) the side molding is held on by 2 way adhesive, spyder wire style fishing line and a heat gun = FTW! then goo gone the residual and BLAM, debadged!
i wonder if i added a few coats of clear coat after the primer if that would protect it longer.. because it will be a while before i can get it painted thats for sure. but im just so over it being red....
They do make an epoxy primer that can be tinted to just about any color you want. A lot of "Ratrod" builders are going this way. It will seal unlike regular primer which is pourous thus allowing moisture to seep through. An automotive paint supplier should be able to head you in the right direction
x2, you are better off waiting to have it painted, then spray bombing it with primer. It will just take longer and cost twice as much to paint with it covered in rattle prime,r then just keeping it red.
Leaving your truck Primer for a long period of time is bad, also. Primer is porous, so you will have to do some re-sanding, and re-priming when you decide to paint. Just leave it red until you can afford a paint job. Less work.




