Replaced B2S1, It came out easily and after a bit the SES light turned itself off.

 

I have a 1975 Chevrolet K5. And one day I ran out of gas, walked to gas station put gas in to get started and make it to gas station. Get there and fill the tank up. Then go home to sleep couple hours later come out won't start just the solenoid relay click one time. No electrical power, no lights no crank no start NOTHING except that 1click. I research that it may be fuel pump, battery, battery cables, solenoid relay, starter, fuel filter, ignition switch, neutral safety switch, I REPLACE ALL of those Brand new. Then the ignition key tumbler breaks so I was able to start it with the screw driver method of touching the solenoid relay and S terminal, I got a temporary cheap push button until the One I ordered arrived so I wouldn't have to keep touching positive side of relay to S terminal. The cheap push button lasted a couple days. NOW I have no crank, no start, no electrical power no turn over when I touch positive side on solenoid relay to S terminal I get the One Click. And the Only Thing that works is the Power switch for the Powered Tailgate window. ANY & All suggestions, ideas, advice, expertise that can/will point me in the direction of solving/fixing this. Or if you have experienced any or all of these things "What How did you get your truck up & running?" I TRULY THANK ALL OF YOU WHO TOOK THE TIME TO READ ALL OF THIS AND RESPOND's in any way that may help me.

 

K5,
Starter relay quits then
ignition switch starter terminal quits then
push button starter quits then
replacement starter relay quits.

Something like that? After you would get it started could you keep it going? Have you put in the new ignition key cylinder?
Does your battery keep running down; does it discharge overnight? I gotta think there is a big short between the starter, the relay, the key and the coil.

 

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Hey Thank you for responding. Throughout this whole entire process I just can't shake the feelings or thoughts that it is exactly what you suggested "That There's some type of wire short/issue" in actually about to go out to the K5 now and see if it's any of the wires I've been suspecting. I will let you know cause I wouldn't mind continuing with you. Either through email the forum or my number is (707)712-6936 My name is Trey

 

You have to be methodical rather than simply throwing parts at it. If the ignition key cylinder is broken you need to fix that first. Then, if problem persists, start with the easier stuff. Make sure battery is charged. Try starting it with another battery attached via jumper cables. Make sure all electrical connections in path (including battery cables and grounds) are tight and shiny-clean. If headlights come on, note their behavior while turning key to "start". If they dim significantly, there is a current draw from solenoid and/or starter. If not, look for fault. Check fusible link (not sure where it is on K5). Check solenoid & starter. Some auto parts stores can do this for you if you bring it in. Check any fuses & relays in the path to solenoid. If neutral safety switch is suspected, try moving shift lever while holding key in start position. Switch could be misaligned or shift linkage worn. Check ignition switch contacts.

That's all I can think of offhand, but I'm betting that it's something simple...

 

Today I cleaned the intake manifold, took apart the spider, and started cleaned the gaskets off the surfaces.
Also cleaned the valve covers and going to put new gaskets on those this week.
Hoping to button everything back on by the end of the week

 

We had pulled the gas tank and swapped it on the 85 S10 4x4 Blazer my son bought for $500 which had been setting for seven years. It was toast. Then we changed the filter at the carb, followed by the fuel pump which wasn't working. At that point we could get it to run by drizzling gas or spraying starting fluid into it but it wouldn't run on its own. While we had it briefly running that way my son noticed the water pump was leaking so we changed it and the thermostat. Following the old owners advice we pulled the carburetor which he had said would need to be rebuilt. Well, then winter set in so I went into hibernation but now that it's over...

We replaced the majority of the dry rotted vacuum lines and put the carburetor back on which we had rebuilt and it pretty much started right up. Before winter it had sounded like the Bendix was acting up on the starter so we ran it up on ramps to prepare to swap it out for one off of the totaled Blazer (A.K.A. the Blue Beast) even though it hadn't been acting up during recent starts. However, after getting it in the air and remembering that the Y-pipe, cross member, and on this one a skid plate, and additional braces had to be pulled to change said starter I decided to hold off until I could commit more time to it.

Instead we dropped the transmission pan to replace the seal, which appeared to be leaking based on the fluid on the bottom of the catalytic converter, and change out the filter while we were in there. After that we pulled it off of the ramps, put a gallon of tranny fluid back in it, put on a cheap oil filter, added a motor medic and then ran it for five minutes while we back flushed the coolant system. After shutting it down we did an oil change and added some Prestone coolant system cleaner. Then we let it sit and run for a while. Seems to run fine although I think it's idling a little higher than it should.

Oh, I had noticed the wiper motor was unplugged and had a ground jumper ran to it with another wire plugged onto it with an alligator clip on it so I figured there was an issue with the wiper motor or switch. I plugged it in and as soon as my son turned the key the pump started spraying the windshield which tells me the wiper switch is likely bad. Anyone know if there is a tutorial on here as to how to change it? I'll try to search it at some point myself if need be but it's time for bed.

Also, anyone know any shortcuts for getting those starters out? Magic wand maybe?

 

WIth all the vacuum lines swapped might have a small leak for the rpm being a bit high tho you did carb rebuild so could be that too. Not sure which switch you have but easy testing first, pull fuse with it plugged in and see if still runs. That could tell you if shorted. With all you said not even sure what model and year we are even talking about. I’d post the main tech issue to proper forum header.

 

I don't remember having to yank the Y-pipe for a starter on those. It can be done around it, although, a lot of things under the S-series trucks can be a bit of a pain to get to.

As far as getting the multifunction switch out, how depends on what you've got for a column. I had a tilt column in mine, and it required 2 special tools. Pretty sure I posted about that on here years back - I'll see if I can dig it up ...


...Whelp - I must've imagined posting that. Here's some pics of the job from my archives - remember, mine is a tilt column - straight column will be MUCH easier to do the job on.

The tool you really need isn't pictured here - it's used to push a pin out to release part of the tilt mechanism. Lisle 19940 Pivot Pin Remover - luckily it's dirt cheap:
OH - and while you're in there, REMOVE the FOUR Torx bolts holding the column together once it's apart - these love to loosen on these trucks! My wife was driving ours with just a couple threads of 2 of them holding the column together! She didn't even notice the slop, lol. I removed all 4, put red Loctite on them, and hogged them down - they will NOT be coming apart again.






Can probably get away without this particular tool, but getting that C-clip out is MUCH easier with it.

 

Finally got this beauty home and on a stand

Already started stripping it down some














Can sort of see the 4L65e in the background of the last picture that I plan to mate up to it.

And don't mind the garage clutter... neighbor is having a garage sale tomorrow and I'm HOPING a lot of it goes lol