Had to tow the blue beast home. My son called me the night before last to tell me the engine was 'gone'. When I asked what he meant he started it up. I immediately hollered, 'Shut it off!' It was knocking to beat all hell. I'm not sure if he was driving it too hard but that's what I suspect. I'm guessing it's rod bearings.

Anyone know how feasible it is to try to do the rod bearings on an old '85 S10 4x4 Blazer with the 2.8 (technically a 3.1 but same block/bearings) Without pulling the engine? I'm sure it's a pain and would be easier to pull it but the rain has the ground under my engine hoist tree limb too muddy pull an engine... and it's raining again.

 

If you can get the pan down, you can easily "bearing-slap" the engine - toss in some new bearings (of the correct clearances, of course) and be on your way. The journals may be scored pretty bad, but if you just want to get the last little bit of life out of the engine, that's the way to go.

 

Not really sure what to do at this point. I did find another tree that's on the side of the driveway which will allow me to be able to pull the engine. It's not ideal since the Blazer has to be facing the tree but I can make it work.

I still don't know just how much damage he's done, and I'm not sure how to tell, so I'm debating on what to do. We don't have a lot of money to work with but I'd like to save the engine if possible. That being said I'm a shade tree mechanic with general knowledge. I'm not an expert by any means. I had figured I should also pull the rods to see if he bent one/any of them.

He was asking if I thought we could change the cam while we were working on it. He was hoping for a recreational cam to give it a little more power. I'm not sure if it's worth it or not.

It's basically either try to fix this engine or have him without transportation while he saves up to get another salvage yard engine. I don't really like the second option.

 

Noticed a little spotting under the passenger side front of the truck this morning while walking the doggies, looked like antifreeze. Was hoping to find a leaky radiator cap, maybe even just a leaky lower radiator hose. Nope... underside of the water pump is covered in antifreeze... it's either seaping from the back plate on the pump or the weap hole and running down the lower radiator hose, which is why it looked like it was coming from the passenger side. so, because I'm lazy and don't feel like doing it today lol looks like I'm installing a new water pump next weekend... Still got the receipt from Orileys when I bought it a little over three years ago, but no idea what the warrantee is on it. Actually about to ride into town and find out.

Only figures... One week after I fix the oil leak, I find this lol

 

I removed the "flopping" broken stereo mount and stood on my head for a while to get the ashtray stuck back into the dash and closing properly.. the universal kit was as usual.. a giant pain in the rear end!

 

I discovered 8" 3/8th inch threaded rod for replacing the water pump.. thread them into the bottom holes and the pump will slide right on.. you dont have to try and hold the pump and try and thread in the bolts! Everyone but me probably already knows about that trick.. but it sure made me happy when I found it! LOL

 

Not a bad idea, studs instead of bolts!

Turns out last time I bought a cheaper reman unit last time with a one year warranty... So I went ahead and ordered a NEW pump with a lifetime warranty this time around.

 

Reman will always fail. I have never put a reman water pump or master cylinder on that I didn't have to replace again. Save your self the time by spending the extra money just buy new.

On a side note I have never had problems from a reman alternator or starter.

 

Yep, I'm hoping for better luck from this new one... the reman one was only like $35 3 years ago, this new one cost me a whopping $10 more Picked it up today (they had to order it in), so the plan is to rip it apart Friday after work, if I don't run into any snags then I should actually have the new one bolted back on in the same afternoon, that'll give the sealant a good full night to set up before I even put antifreeze back in it

 

Well, You dont leave the threaded rods in there.. they just allow you to slide the pump on and get the top bolts started.. then you remove the threaded rods and put in the (siliconed) bottom bolts..