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General ChatChat about all things Blazer (and related vehicles). Off-topic stuff should be in the lounge, and all mechanical problems should be posted in the proper forum.
Tackled the door hing pin bushings on the passenger front door for the 2nd time since taking ownership of my Blazer :P
Not a terrible job when you've got the right tools. After I did one door when I first got the Blazer, I went out and bought one of these guys to remove the spring. Everything else (aside from holding the door up long enough to line up holes for the pins to go in, ESPECIALLY by yourself...) is easy-breezy.
Tried something new this round. One of the pins already tried to back out a while back and I had to tap in into place. To be fair I think the retaining lock that pops on had cracked and fallen off... But to go the extra mile, I stacked on some washers before popping on the locks so that the pin isn't going to BUDGE this time around.
Before I got the Blazer, the previous owner had let them go for so long that the holes in the upper hinges on BOTH sides are opened up so much that I have to use oversized bushings on them now... On the bottoms I can use factory speced replacements, but on the driver's side upper I have to use bushings that are .020 larger and on the passenger side I have to use some that are .010 larger. Got them from here, and considering all 4 bushings from in the bag for $19, it's comparable to having to use stock spec'ed bushings. Heck, actually cheaper? Only downfall us you have to order then online... I just used my last .010 oversized on this door so I'll be ordering some more and refilling my inventory I like to know that I have them if I need them.
Last edited by blazen_red_4x4; 09-27-2017 at 07:06 PM.
Got a jump start on this weekend's project when I got home from work. Installing new Rockford Fosgate components in the front doors (replacing old JL ones I had in them, as the driver's side tweeter has stopped working...), as well as installing some new pop-in clips that hold the door panel to the door. I also worked on silencing the door panel a little more using some electrical tape where the clips popped into the panel. I also went another step and used some extra door edge trim to run the edge of the panel where I could TELL it's been rubbing against the door, and also put some electrical tape in some strategic places on the window switch to make it not squeak so much. The whole assembly just feels more solid on the door now and there's FAR much less squeaking coming from it... Have yet to drive it so who knows about the rattling lol. Going to knock out the driver's side tomorrow and then we'll find out!
I stopped and load gas and 2 weeks ago i got it out from the shop , i did a complete transmission oil change and i got to mention that they work with the Geniune oil from the hondas i guess it is for hondas but i hope it doesnt cause any problems, anyways i want it to do the tranni oil change because i had a code slipping transmision component but with the oil change it when off!
so im very happy about it .
Well I was headed to work today when another driver hit me from the side forcing me into the back of a parked truck on the shoulder
Here’s some of the aftermath it’s a sad sad day my first blazer is now totaled I believe
I did a complete transmission oil change and i got to mention that they work with the Geniune oil from the hondas i guess it is for hondas but i hope it doesnt cause any problems, anyways i want it to do the tranni oil change because i had a code slipping transmision component but with the oil change it when off!
so im very happy about it .
Interesting... I have a Honda Element and recently changed the tranny oil. Everything I read about it said you should use the OEM Honda brand fluid (ATF-DW1), but I never heard of anyone using the Honda fluid in a different vehicle.
I'm not sure what the previous owner used, but with fresh Honda fluid, the Element shifts much better and doesn't slip at all. I was detecting a small amount of slippage before. I thought it was a compatibility thing, but maybe the DW1 is better overall. Was worth the $9/quart price...
Removed the cruddy CHEVROLET badge from the drop gate, then used a pinstripe removal wheel to erase the remaining adhesive. Apparently the paint on these trucks is very soft as it didn't take a few seconds to get down to the primer.😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠
09-27-2017, 06:52 PM
I like to know that I have them if I need them.
1998 Chevy Blazer 4x4 4.3 vortek
