Got the water pump pulled off today and replaced a few more vacuum lines. Picked up a new pump and the float for the carb but didn't get back in time to do anything else. With a little luck I'll get the pump put back on tomorrow. The instructions that came with it specified a torque of 22ft pounds which doesn't sound bad for the bigger bolts but sounds like way too much for those 10mm bolts. Anyone care to offer advice on what to torque those to? German Virgin maybe? GoodNTight?

I'm hoping to get the carb rebuilt tomorrow as well but we'll see how it goes. I sure do hate the lack of accessibility to the nuts that hold the carb on. There had to have been some kind of specialty tool for it. It's another one of those things that makes me what to stick the engineers that came up with the design into a gladiator ring.

 

Only things I torque are axle nuts, and cylinder head bolts.

With those water pumps, I put a thin film of RTV on both side gaskets, then snug 'em down. Haven't had one leak since the first one I ever did, back in the early 90's.

 

Yeah, that used to be my general MO too but then I got some decent torque wrenches (I'm sure they're not the absolute best) and now If I know a torque is recommended then I like to put them to use to make sure I'm not over or under tightening stuff.

I remembered why I was being paranoid about going 22ft pounds on those 10mm. I was following directions on a water pump (torqueing to 22ft pounds) when we putting the engine for 'Old Blue', A.K.A. 'The Blue Beast' now that it's totaled, together and stripped one of those 10 mm holes. This time around I ended up going with 22ft pounds on the 15mm and 13mm bolts and 89 inch pounds on the 10mm bolts. I'm hoping that'll work. It felt about right. I reckon we'll find out IF I can get that carb rebuilt well enough for it to run.(and put back on)

 

I'd hit a wall and pushed in the passenger side bumper till it was only 3/4 inch from the tire. Finally I got out there pushed it back, giving me some space in case I get those oversize tires.

 

Replaced R/L Motor Mounts (What a PIA), Replaced Transmission mount, changed oil fluid & filter.

 

Just finished up putting in new tie rod ends inner and outer. Replaced the pitman arm without pulling out the steering box. Replaced the pitman arm and did the coil-over shock mod presented by Blazer_4x4.

 

Is your Blazer a 4wd? How was the pitman arm replacement? Very hard?

What is the coil-over shock mod?

 

Instead of the plain gas shock, there a gas coil over shock, for Baja style VW I believe, that he used on the front. Apparently has improved overall front end suspension performance and ride. He did a write up on it. I just seen a reply on it today.

edit: adding link

https://blazerforum.com/forum/suspension-tech-12/front-coil-over-shock-mod-75652/

 

Yes my Blazer is a 4wd. The pitman arm replacement was actually very easy. Was very surprised. I did not have to remove the steering box completely or undo the hoses as everywhere says you need to. I just unmounted the steering box which allowed me to wiggle it back just enough to clear the crossmember on the frame. I was able to reach the pitman arm nut and use my puller with just enough room.

The coil shock mod idea i got from Blazer_4x4
https://blazerforum.com/forum/suspen...ock-mod-75652/

 

That's the way I always do it - just yank the bolts and steering shaft, pull it forward, then kick it to the side. No need to completely remove it.