Christine, you always find great parts for our trucks! I have a small pin hole in my radiator and will be replacing it with an aluminum one like yours!
I removed my front sway bar and started trying to adjust my alignment. 35s and off roading don't mix well with our stock front ends. I'm just trying to make it live until I swap in a solid axle.

 

Thanks for the compliment. But apparently I posted a bit too soon. Where I had placed my order said they had none of my parts in stock and I'd have to wait a month. So I'm looking again for the same parts.

 

Drove it for the first time in about 2 weeks. Kinda felt bad because I had to jump the darn thing off... then the radio didn't want to work, guess it didn't like the low voltage lol

 

Oil change and air filter change last Thursday, before leaving town for a BBQ competition over the weekend.

Trying out a Wix oil filter this time... thanks rock auto!

 

I made my purchase of new front rotors and pads for my truck this morning.

I've gone with the Stop Tech Slotted Cryo-Treated rotors (pns 126.66038CSR and 126.66038CSL) and the Hawk Light Truck/SUV pads (pn HB304Y.598). The total cost is not cheap; $317.00. It is worth shopping around and asking if there are any discounts for phone orders. The rotors will range in price from $119 each to $165 each.

As some of you know, I use my Blazer to tow my 2,200 pounds of boat up and down some big hills. My closest one is 1,700' in 6 miles and it has 5 runaway truck ramps. As such I was willing to invest in the best brakes parts I could find. As an aside, a few years ago, a friend was towing his 5th-wheel trailer down that same hill with his 3/4 ton Chevy truck. The trailer brakes stopped working or came disconnected and as a result he was braking only with the truck. He almost had his front brakes catch on fire!

Regarding the parts:

• Cryo-Treating: This is used on heavy-duty fleet vehicles (e.g. police cars) and can improve the rotor life-times by 50%. Related to the life-time increase is that they dissipate and conduct heat better. I decided that whatever rotors I got, they would be cryo-treated. Cryo-treated rotors can be turned and resurfaced. There is an extra lead time for getting these as they have to be treated first. This adds about 2 weeks to any order.
• Slotted: I almost went with the plain rotors but there are some advantages to the slotted ones. They can add a margin of increased clearing of the rotor of water. Also, the edges of the slots are said to help keep surface of the pads in better shape. The cost is that you get a bit more brake dust and of course increased price over plain rotors. Drilling or even dimpling of rotors is anymore almost only for aesthetic reasons. There was a time when this was quite useful when brake pads were made of materials (the asbestos days) that had organic volatile compounds that would create a gas layer between the pad and rotor under heavy continuous braking. With modern pads, this is not much of an issue. That drilling could help with cooling is kind of true but in a bad way as the cooling of the rotor is not uniform and cracks are more likely to form. Cast holes are better but still not that useful.
• Pads: The Hawk pads seemed to be one of many brands of high-quality pads out there. I liked that they were designed with towing in mind.

 

Had a local shop replace the steering gear box and rag joint today. The sloppy steering is gone now. They said a tie rod was flexing a lot more than it should and the ball joints could stand to be replaced. I already have the ball joints so they're going to work me up a quote tomorrow to make the repairs.

 

After many years of having the drivers side seat acting up. (would randomly change positions while driving, hear clicking sound from ECU), this made me unplug the ECU from the drivers seat for a few years.
[2001 Chevy Blazer]

Finally had some time to check out why the seat was acting up, plugged module back in a was getting B1785, B2356, B3792. (I use a BlueDriver scan tool with iphone and it reads ALL the module codes.)

Not entirely sure what happened there, but this repair has allowed the seat to function again. (forward, back, recline, lumbar, heat, and memory).

Cleared codes post install, no DTC.

In case if anyone was wondering this is Part# 12474289.

Hopefully this lasts for a while.


Fried.

repaired board

 

Repaired Driver ECU Seat Control Module. (12474289)

Was throwing B2356 and B3792.

When attempting to move seat forward and backward, module would just click.\

Seat finally moves now after 10 years.

 

Nice fix. Congrats!

Where is that control board located?

 

This ECU can be found underneath the driver’s seat on vehicles equipped with the memory option.