Yea I think the step portion will be at an angle rather than flat to if that makes sense!

I got a bit more done on the half door project pics in my build thread of course!

 

Got general grabber at2s! there so sexy, 30x9.5x15s

 

I installed a 7&4 pole trailer plug in the rear bumper tonight
Now I can go camping friday and actually have trailer lights

 

I did nothing to the truck today, but interesting story about 5 minutes ago, was coming back from the store, sammiched between 2 cops, on in front, one in back, was the ultimate test on if the headlights cause a problem, or the tail lights for that matter. And, not a single problem. I am thinking of getting a new exhaust system for the truck, later in the summer, before winter for sure.
I just need to find someone with a welder that would be willing to help with these cab mounts, my buddy that was going to help flaked out on me.......

 

I just washed my truck today, I was going to start putting the new light rack on but i'm going to wait untill the weather is a bit warmer.

 

Come on over I've got a welder and I'd love to give you a hand! I'd only charge a couple beers and I'd even let you and Chelsea sleep on the couch! It's a temperpedic pull out

 

If you were not so far away, I would jump on that offer.
I just did a lot of reading, and I can get it done without a welder, 3m panel bond adhesive is REALLY strong stuff, I have seen tests of it on auto shows, where they used it, and then did stress tests, and the metal would break before the adhesive.
So I am going to use that, but leave an inch over lap on the metal, and every like 5 inches use some shallow head bolts just to hold it in place while the adhesive sets up (might leave the bolts on anyways, just for an extra piece of mind) but when I searched it, I found someone that had a s10 blazer that used it for the cab mounts, and its been years since they did it, and they are still holding strong.

but it brings me to the question. I would like to do both sides at the same time, if I unbolt both drivers and pass core support, the rear cab mounts, I think I would have enough play to jack up the body a little bit. do you think that would work? I would hate to have to do it one side at a time, since i only have the weekends to do it.

 

Well, the first two of my fluid sample reports came in (via email).

This one is the engine oil sample (incorrectly labeled as transmission oil here)... and I'm not liking what I'm seeing.


The second is from the rear differential oil, and it's about what I was expecting.

 

Yeah, I do not know what I am looking at, but if it is running fine. I do not see the point to doing tests on the fluids. just my thoughts.

 

I worked on two today; my old '94 Blazer which I sold to a friend, and my '98 Jimmy. I cleaned the EGR valve and passages and replaced the gasket with a screened gasket on the '94. It seems that carbon likes to flake off and stick the pintle open causing a massive vacuum leak. What a surprise! In other news, remote oil lines leak.

On the '98 I did more testing of the EVAP system. I think I'm getting somewhere with that one.