my blazer is drivin me nutz, when slowing down or coming to a stop it shuts off. i had the rotor, dist cap,egr valve, plugs and wires replaced and still didnt fix it. it seems to run worse when i use the heater or air conditioner. i can be driving along at 55-60 mph and it feels like its cuttin out. someone help....I ALSO HAD IT ON THE COMPUTER AND NO CODES TO CHECK NUTHIN CAME UP.I WAS TOLD TO REMOVE THE POS BATTERY TERMINAL WHILE IT WAS RUNNING TO CHECK THE ALTERNATOR AND I DID AND IT CONTINUED TO RUN[:@]

 

Ok, I would have to suggest you go through and clean your MAF sensor and throttle body. If the IAC valve in the throttle body is gummed up and not working, it could cause the issues that you are describing. And well, cleaning the MAF sensor is easy and it's bound to have some gunk builtup on it even if you don't use an aftermarket oiled air filter.

As for cleaning the TB, I would suggest that you remove the TB as it allows you to gain access to all of the ports as well as allows you to easily remove all of the sensors. I would suggest using a sensor safe TB/Carb cleaner. CRC makes a MAF sensor cleaner that would work as well, but it's more expensive so I save mine for my MAF sensor maintenance.

If you get through all of that and you still have a problem, I'd say that the EGR valve should be the next thing to clean. Have a new gasket handy and clean the EGR valve with the same cleaner used on the TB. If you can, take a pipe cleaner and clean out the supply port in the intake manifold as well. Then start the vehicle briefly (VERY briefly) to blow all of the carbon deposits out.

Keep us posted.

 

THANX BUT IM FEMALE SO COULD U PLEASE TELL ME WHERE THE MAF SENSOR IS. GARAGES ARE DRAINING MY BANK ACCOUNT

ALSO I JUST REPLACED THE EGR VALVE A WEEK OR TWO AGO


*EDIT by swartlkk* - Merged two posts. Please edit your posts if you must add more information before someone else responds.

 

The MAF sensor is located in the intake tube between the air filter and the throttle body. It is sandwiched between two aluminum pieces. To properly clean the MAF sensor, the sensor must be disassembled (removing the aluminum pieces). If you cannot blast the stuck on dirt with the stream from the can of cleaner, then you must carefully use a q-tip to remove the rest of the debris. The small elements (little resistor looking things) should be a silvery white color when clean. Because of age, some never get past a very lite tan color, so if you get to this color, do not continue to clean. Be VERY careful with your MAF sensor as they are very delicate and are also very expensive.

 

I recently did the same mantinance on my '99 and I ended up finding a crack in the rubber elbow that fits on the PCV valve. I think it may have been caused when I tried to pull it off the PCV valve, anyway I noticed it and decided to see if I could find a replacement elbow. Long story short the truck ran like crap all over town and nobody had the elbow except the chevy dealer it cost something like $12 for a $0.30 part but it made the truck run a whole lot better.

The PCV valve is right below the intake duct where it makes a 90 degree bend and fits onto the throttlebody, take off the intake and you'll see a hose coming out of the engine at about 2 o'clock right next to the throttlebody. You can pull everything apart without tools, if you sweet talk a guy at an autoparts store he may even take a look at it in the parking lot for you. What you describe sounds exactly like a vaccume leak.

 

Never never never disconnect your battery terminal while it is running. It can cause a voltage spike and fry your computer. If your car was a 1965 that a good way to check, but not on anything with a computer.

Brandon

 

I've heared this on other forums and never really come up with any solid reason why you shouldn't disconnect the negative terminal besides some technical speculation that hasn't really been proven true or false. Can you take a meter out to my car and measure this spike? Doesn't the computer have an filtering circuit to absorb spikes? I know Oldsmobile specifically stated in some of their owners manuals not to offer to jump start someone using their vehicle because it could damage the electronics, but this was for vehicles built in the mid '80s, electronics have come a long way in the last 20 years.

FWIW I've disconnected the battery with the engine running for one reason or another in every car I've owned for the last 6 years and never fried the computer.