Ghost in the Machine
 

Well another problem has just reared its head again. I had side markers installed on the blazer because it's the law in the UK and we were breaking it for about 4 years. Anyways, I took it to the same place that fixed some other parts on the truck and it worked fine for 2 weeks.
My wife was driving home and she turned on the left turn signal and the entire truck died. It took here 15 minutes to drive less than 2 miles to get home. It kept dying.
Now it is running good once it starts. I say it like that because it feels like my ignition kill switch under the steering wheel has been pulled out. I can put my key in the ignition and the radio will come on but nothing else will. I can sit there and crank the motor. It tries to start but won't because no juice is moving the fuel. Then other times I have to take out the little iginiton disabler and it will start up after a few seconds. Then sometimes it will just fire right up. This is so pissing me off. I'm more scared for my wife since it's her main car. What is wrong? I got a eletric gremlin somewhere in the wires.
At first I thought it would be the crappy side marker install but that runs on a different system so it won't affect the ignition right?

RE: Ghost in the Machine
 

I've looked all over and I can't see anywhere you have the year or model of your truck posted.
Do you have aftermarket accessories, such as a kill switch?
I highly doubt that the problem is related to side marker lights.

RE: Ghost in the Machine
 

Whoops I drive a 1997 4 door 2wd and there's nothing aftermarket about the truck except for my suspension which is all the polyurethane stuff.

RE: Ghost in the Machine
 

i might be rong but it sounds like you have a dead short some were like a wire is not grounded out or something like that i had a problem like that with fog lights not to long ago

RE: Ghost in the Machine
 

Here's a bunch of stuff, don't know if it helps
Rough, Unstable, or Incorrect Idle and Stalling
Checks
Action

DEFINITION: The engine runs unevenly at idle. If severe enough, the engine or vehicle may shake. The engine idle speed may vary in RPM. Either condition may be severe enough to stall the engine.

Preliminary Check
Refer to Symptoms .

Sensor Checks
• Check the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S). Check for silicon contamination from fuel or improperly used sealant. The sensor will have a white powdery coating. The sensor will result in a high but false signal voltage (rich exhaust indication). The Control Module will reduce the amount of fuel delivered to the engine causing a severe driveability problem.

• Check the Throttle Position (TP) sensor. If a sticking throttle shaft or binding linkage causes a high TP sensor open throttle indication, the Control Module will not control the idle. Monitor the TP sensor voltage. A scan tool and/or voltmeter should read less than 0.85 volts with the throttle closed.

• Check the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor using the scan tool to compare the engine coolant temperature with the ambient air temperature on a cold engine. If the coolant temperature reading is more than 5 degrees greater than or less than the ambient air temperature on a cold engine, check for a high resistance in the coolant sensor circuit or the sensor itself.

• Check the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor response and accuracy.

Fuel System Checks
• Check the fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel System Diagnosis .

• Check to determine if a Rich or Lean system causes the condition. Drive the vehicle at the speed of the complaint. Monitoring the Fuel Trim will help identify the problem.

- Lean - The Long Term Fuel Trim is greater than 150.

- Rich - The Long Term Fuel Trim is less than 115.

• Perform the fuel injector balance test. Refer to Fuel Injector Balance Test with Tech 2 .

• Check the fuel injector driver circuit.

Disconnect the injector harness connector at the injectors.
Connect an injector test light between the terminals of each injector connector and note the light while cranking.
If the test light fails to blink at any connector, then check for a damaged injector drive circuit harness, connector, or terminal.
• Perform the fuel injector coil test. Refer to Fuel Injector Coil Test .

• Check the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) control system. Refer to Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Diagnosis .

Ignition System Checks
• Check the ignition output using the J 26792 spark tester or the equivalent. Refer to Enhanced Ignition System Diagnosis

• Check for the following conditions:

- Wet plugs

- Cracks

- Wear

- Improper gap

- Burned electrodes

- Blistered insulators

- Heavy deposits

• Check the spark plug wires by connecting a J 39200 DMM to the ends of each wire in question. If the meter reads over 30,000 ohms, then replace the wires.

Additional Checks
• Check for vacuum leaks. Vacuum leaks can cause a higher than normal idle and low Idle Air Control (IAC) counts.

• Check the IAC operation. Refer to Idle Air Control (IAC) System Diagnosis .

• Check the Control Module grounds for being clean, tight, and in their proper locations. Refer to Engine Controls Component Views .

• Check the scan tool to determine if the Control Module is receiving an A/C signal. Refer to Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor Control Circuit Diagnosis . If a problem exists with the A/C ON, check the A/C system operation.

• Check for the EGR being ON while idling which will cause roughness, stalling, and hard starting. Refer to Exhaust Gas Recirculat

RE: Ghost in the Machine
 

Well I just noticed that when my dome light turns off the power kicks on. HUH???