Radiator peacock?
 

This radiator peacock is kicking my butt. Can someone enlighten me on how to unscrew the darn thing so I can drain and flush my radiator?

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

Sorry, its for the '00. 4.3L V6/4L60E/NP233. with oil and tranny cooler.

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

heh.. it's called a petcock and I believe it's just a wingnut kinda... and you just screw it in... but DON'T break it off.. if it's not goin'.. just remove the lower radiator line and let all the coolant drain out... that's usually what I do anyways... takes too long for me with the petcock.....;)

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

Ah yes, peTcock.

I too was looking for a wing nut, nope, not this one. I'm thinking a screwdriver fits in the end. The almighty question. Which way does it turn, in or out? Like you pointed out, breaking it is not an option. Next step would be removing the lower radiaotr hose, however it don't like its going to be much easier. Plus it sits a couple inches off the bottom of the tank. Ya know all the rumors of the Dex-Cool. I want to make sure I get all the old stuf out when I flush it. Its got 6 years on the old stuff now, and 121,000 miles.

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

is this the 2000?

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

yep

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

hmmm
I just looked at my Alldata and it doesn't show that... it shows an actual plastic wingbolt that spins out and lets the coolant come outta the tube....:/

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

you're not lookin' at the very bottom of the radiator are you???
because it shows the wingbolt on the back side of the radiator... like.. .facing the engine... there does look like somekind of nipple or something on the very bottom...but that's not it....:/

there's also some plugs on the side of the block you gotta pull or it says up to 40% of the coolant will stay in if you don't

if you want I can print this to a pdf file and just email it to ya....:P

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

Bottom of the radiator on the passenger side. Use a 1/4" rachet to open it. Put the square into the end of the petcock.

I pulled my inner fender when I did mine. But I also cleaned my overflow tank which required removing it. I put a short section of hose on the radiator drain tube, and opened up the petcock. Then pulled the lower rad hose and let it drain into a bucket.

Also, you do not need to remove any plugs on the sides of the block if you flush it out good with a garden hose. I ended up using a garden hose for about 45 minutes of flushing through the t-stat housing and out the lower rad hose. I then ran it with the old t-stat without the center section and just water in the engine. Repeated the proceedure for draining it. Then ran 6 gallons worth of distilled water through it, ran it up to operating temps, and drained it again. Then filled with 6qts of Prestone All Makes, All Models Extended Life antifreeze and topped off the radiator with distilled water. Filled the overflow with 50/50 mix antifreeze/distilled water. While I was flushing things, I flushed the heater core with the garden hose for about 2 minutes in each direction. Nothing but antifreeze, then water came out.

You should have seen my truck. I had the back end up on jackstands, the front wheels off and the front slammed down on the ground! Looked weird as hell, but it helped a ton in getting the coolant out.

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

Thanks guys.
1/4" rachet drive. I never would have guessed that. Its impossible to see inside that opening, at least for me.

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

All I've ever done to drain the rad is loosen the petcock. Driver side facing the engine.

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RE: Radiator peacock?
 

They must have changed something in 2000, because the petcock looks NOTHING like that. It has a slot across it, but the slot can only be used to turn it in. Then it has a square drive in the center for a 1/4" rachet. Plus, it's on the passenger side as I stated (I just did it like a month ago).

It is A LOT easier to do this with the inner fender out. Considering that you only have to pull the battery, battery tray, PCM, & coolant bottle out to remove the inner fender, it is a pretty easy thing to do for MUCH more access.

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

HEY you use a 1/4" drive like kyle said but you only turn it about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn (counter clockwise)and then pull straight out on it. It will not come all the way out in your hand, it has a grove in it don't try to turn it more than a half a turn.

OH yea It is on the right hand (PASSENGER) side lower corner facing the engine you can access it best from the RF wheel-well in between the inner fender and the frame rail.

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

I saw that it could be completely removed, but I left mine in and just let it drain out through the hose that I put onto the nipple that comes off of the petcock. Worked like a charm.

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

More usefull info.
Thanks,

Normally I replace the hoses, water pump, and thermostat when I flush the radiator. However money is really tight right now and I need to get the fluid flushed. I figure the least I have to open to get the job done the better.

Maybe I am barking up the wrong tree. But my enthusiasm to do the flush was spured on by this recent heat wave. While driving home from 6 Flags St. Louis during the heat of the day. My overheat outside temp was showing 102 degrees. My engine rpms were at 2050, and I was cruising 70mph. My water temp was showing just shy of 210. When I bumped up my speed to pass my water temp jumped up to just over 210 and my a/c stopped working. No doubt becuase of the engine temps. So I slowed down to about 68mph and the water temp dropped to 200 or so. A/c came back on and all was well. I had about 2 hours to think about it and play with it, and the best I could come up with is it must be time to flush my system. Maybe its got the dreaded sludge build up?
After I cooled the radiator via my water house at home, I popped off the radiator cap. Coolant looked fine, a little dark in color compared to new, however I could still see down insdie the tank a little ways. The antifreeze is 6 yars old, so its due. Plsut I made sure the water through the radiator was clear and muddy, as in like mud from my wheeling excusrions was plugging up the cooling fins.

I had another thought and it might have some impact. I did remove my front splash guard, maybe the air isn't circulating like it should in the engine compartment and its getting hotter then it should, that and the extreme heat we have been expericening.

Today I drove to work, my turn in the car pool. Its 38 miles interstate one way. 65 is legal, I was doing 74 and got past by a state trooper, never seen him come up behind me. Morning comute no problem, water temp hovered around 190 like always. On the way home, same, 190. My overhead outside temp showed 98 degrees and the a/c was fine. I pull into the parking lot to drop the rest of them off, and my water temp jumped up to just over 210 and the a/c shut off. Once I got back on the road and heading home (55mph) temp dropped and the a/c kicked back on.

I am due for an oil change, and typically I am about 1/4 quart (pint) low on oil at this point. Consequently my oil pressure is a little lower then when full of oil.

I also put in the Bosch spark plugs 20,000 miles ago. I have noticed the engine seems to be a bit slugish, different gas makes no diffrence, takes a little more peddle then whent he plugs where new. MAybe the plugs aren't burning all the gas completely.

Maybe its all those factors put togehter. Or maybe its just almost worn out anti-freeze.

Just curious if I am barking up the wrong tree thinking a flush will resolve my problem?

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

I would definitely put that air damn back. That is there to create a low pressure area behind the radiator by forcing air low and under the vehicle. If air is allowed to get up into the engine bay, behind the radiator, the fan will have to work harder to pull as much air through the rad.

The lack of an air dam does not solve the temp rise when stationary, but that could just be from the temps (both ambient and increased condenser temp from the A/C workin' hard) and the lack of 'free' airflow as when moving.

Your A/C kicking off was probably due to the high pressure limit switch cutting off the compressor to save the system from damage due to the high ambient heat causing the system to really work itself.

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

All that I-state driving may have loosened any coolant sludge buildup to your advantage. G/L.

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

Once again the engineering monster in me shows it's ugly head.... That engine was designed to run a specific plug. and that's AC Delco. Now I do remember when I had my 2 Ninjas we'd run seasonal plugs in them just for the heat and cold. I'd for sure replace those plugs. Running a plug in the wrong heat range will definitely cause you some grief in more ways than one. And if your engine is gonna be a picky one you could think about runnin' a range lower (cooler) plug in that intense heat. Should you happen to decide to go that way. Just make sure you run them for a while and be particularly attentive to the engine performance and pull the plugs after a while and check how they're burning.Just run into your local autoparts store and ask them for the next cooler range AC Delco plug for your engine. FYI anyone that races will tell ya they run a specific plug for the outside conditions...;) Oh and a higher octane fuel will also cause an engine to run hotter in the cyl. One thing to remember. These engines and ignition systems were designed quite a few years ago and our weather just keeps gettin' more and more extreme. Engineers might not have considered the rising temps we have today and if they had... They would have probably equiped these things with a nice 4 core radiator....:P

Just my 2 cents worth.

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

Kyle and Rich definitely hit the nail on the head. You need that air dam, and this should have delco plugs. Also you are "barking up the right tree" if your coolant is six years old you need to flush it. If you are still having problems, you could also have a fan clutch going bad this will cause insufficient air flow accross the condenser (which will cause high side a/c pressure and kick the compressor off) and insuficient air flow accross the radiator which will cause the high engine coolant temp.

RE: Radiator peacock?
 

Thanks guys.
Guess I have a few more projects this weekend. [8D]

That's what I need to know about, is there supposed to be something attached to this nipple or what, i replaced the petcock but the water I put in is draining from this nipple?
Thanks
Please help!

Wow.. An oldie for sure.

No, there is nothing that is supposed to be connected to the radiator petcock valve. If you have coolant flowing out of the nipple, then you do not have the valve closed.

Thanks, I realized right after I posted this :( I used the original rubber washer and it wasn't sealing right :o