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Ball joint flip
Has anyone done a ball joint flip on our trucks? I have the t-bars cranked about 1.5 inches. Ive read a lot about it being done on colorado and tacoma trucks with IFS. I bought a set of used superlift control arms and it looks like whoever i bought them from had the BJ's mounted to the underside. I cant decide if i should mount them to the top like they come from the factory or if i should flip them and mount them to the underside of the control arm. I guess its just supposed to increase down travel to make the truck ride a little better? I know it sounds stupid but i really cant decide what i want to do. what do you guys think?
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which ball joint - if its just the upper (since the lower one on mine at least is already on the bottom of the control arm) you'd be throwing your spacing off between the control arms likely putting more wear and tear on the vehicle than anything. i don't see how this would make anything better imo but i likely am wrong all together.
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Originally Posted by UberFail
(Post 401166)
which ball joint - if its just the upper (since the lower one on mine at least is already on the bottom of the control arm) you'd be throwing your spacing off between the control arms likely putting more wear and tear on the vehicle than anything. i don't see how this would make anything better imo but i likely am wrong all together.
http://www.355nation.net/forum/how-c...oint-flip.html heres a write up i found that explains the theory behind it on the Colorado boards. I just cant seem to find much info about it for our trucks. No ones flipped 'em? |
interesting idea
found this on http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...er_HowTo.shtml http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/o...ntSpacer02.jpg "These spacers are 1.5"/38mm tall and provide about that much lift over stock suspension settings as well as that much more overall travel. Actual lift height will depend upon the vehicle's weight distribution and actual torsion bar adjustment which may be 1.5" more or less than the spacer height. Whether or not you prefer enhanced compression travel for high speed trips through desert washes or a balance between compression and extension travel more suited for rocky trails, these spacers will increase your functionality and ability to custom tailor your suspension characteristics while increasing clearance between the fenders and front wheels. If 1.5" is too tall for your needs, 1" and 0.5" spacers are available on special order. An installed 4WD spacer is shown on the far right hand image, above. And also available for the 2WD Toyota pickups as shown in the lower right hand image above. When combined with a mild rear suspension lift, either a lift shackle or block or coil spring spacer, and possibly a mild body lift, it is easy and relatively inexpensive to fit 33" tires under an IFS truck. While a full 4" - 6" IFS spacer lift can be installed and will work fine for 33" tires, for less than 1/2 the price and less than half the time and effort, you can install a milder lift that will actually work better than the taller lift. In fitting with the 4Crawler Offroad motto of "lift as much as you need, but as little as possible", why use a 4" - 6" lift when 1.5"-2.5" will work just as well, if not better? With less lift, your center of gravity will be lower, driveline angles will be less, brake lines will usually not need to be extended, and overall there will be less stress on the components." looks interesting to say the least |
Originally Posted by warthogdriver
(Post 401192)
looks interesting to say the least I think im going to install them flipped. Whats the worst that could happen right? I just wish it wasnt -7 right now... and its gonna a be 10 degree high tomorrow. So im in no rush to work on the truck lol. Ive also found its big with the 2wd s10 guys. |
tony911 where are you?
calling tony991!!!!
I just found these pictures in your trailmaster build page with ball joints flipped! whats the deal? did you do this on purpose? hows it ride? did it provide any lift or alignment benefits? any long term wear or anything? Give us some info please LOL. http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/100_1769.jpg http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/100_1772.jpg |
Those a-arms are designed to run the joints like that. I personally don't see any good from doing it on the factory arms.
Its pretty common to do on imports but not ours. |
Originally Posted by neo71665
(Post 401257)
Those a-arms are designed to run the joints like that. I personally don't see any good from doing it on the factory arms.
Its pretty common to do on imports but not ours. FWIW those are also the same style tubular a-arms that i have... i do not have factory arms. |
Flipping bj works to correct upper bj angles on lifted ifs trucks i did on my lifted 2wd with stock arms and it worked very good. But i dont see the point in it with aftermarket arms that are made to correct bj angles
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Originally Posted by KM346
(Post 401280)
On the rough country website it specifically says to mount them the way they come from the factory, not flipped (like tony). So how do you figure they are designed to mount that way?
you an read through this THREAD if you want. it'll show you if Tony's is correct or not. sorry, but i'm not re-reading that for your benifit. it's a good read though. IMO, i can't see how the flip will work properly. not knocking those that say they've already done this, but think about it. your spindles have a matching taper for the bj stud to line up with, so if you insert the bj from the other side, how exactly is it gonna sit properly? i don't know if it's just 'cause it's 2:35am here, and i've been up for too long on too little sleep (as usual) but i just can't see it. please, correct me if i'm wrong. but don't just say it's so, show me some pic's, of our trucks, not some Toy or Colorado. |
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