First off ur truck looks great. I have been wanting to do something like that if the rents agree. I also was looking at the rough country 2" lift. I was wondering why they ar esuch a big waste of money. Since they include control arms and keys along with 2" shackles for the rear. I know i can just crank my t bars but i know that puts wear on ur joints. The kit also cranks the t bars but it comes with the new arms to help with the wear. Can you please help me out. i dont want to spen $450 if it will be a waste.

 

The new control arms will help with ball joint wear only. The CVs will still be at a steep angle as well as the front drive shaft. New keys are also dangerous because they let you lift the front end up much higher than capable with stock equipment.

If you're going to lift it 2' anyway, you're probably lookin at new ball joints in the near future, especially if you've never had them replaced and you're at any high mileage. This kit coming with ball joints is a good $200 of the price, and on a standard maintenance item for your blazer. Use that to convince the parents

 

just a few corrections... The kit does not affect the angle of the front driveshaft(assuming you are talking about what pushes the power from the transfer case to the front diff) because it does not change the position of the front differential. The kit does affect the angles of your cv shafts, this is why both the rough country and superlift kits caution that the kit is not made for hard off-roading. The kit does come with new ball joints and the new upper control arms angle the ball joints differently to help slow the wear closer to stock wear. However, new ball joints do not cost $200. Ball joints themselves are cheap (2 upper, and 2 lower at advance auto parts will run around $60 + tax), it's the labor to have them replaced that kills you.

Now, to answer the question. Wether or not the kit is worth the money is entirely up to you. Yes you can crank your TB's and get shackles and get the same effect, however it will wear your ball joints rather quickly if your truck sees alot of use. A TB crank is not so bad if your blazer is technically not your daily driver. If your truck sees alot of on road use then I would say yes, the kit is totally worth it. The new upper control arms will make a difference in ball joint wear and it comes with new shocks and ball joints. Off road shocks alone are expensive in IMO. You just have to remember that the kit is not made for hard off-roading. If you just go off road and hit the occasional mud hole like I do then you will probably not have much trouble out of the steeper CV angle. BUT, if you go trail riding, rock crawling, etc.. you will have a problem with the cv angle.. you will be blowing out parts left and right. If you are looking to build a tough trail rig, go with a more sophisticated 6 inch lift kit from superlift. It comes with differential drop brackets to keep a more stock CV angle. If you just want to mount bigger tires for looks (nothing wrong with that) just get a body lift. This will allow for the same size tires as a suspension lift, it just wont give you the extra ground clearance.

Food for thought, your blazer will fit 30x9.50x15's with no suspension mods. With a 2 inch body lift you can fit 31x10.50x15's. Technically only 1/2 inch of ground clearance. Is it worth $200 + new tires for 1/2"?? The suspension lift would give you approximately 2 1/2" more frame clearance but you would have to remember that your rear differential will still only sit 1/2" higher than it would on 30's... and you increase your rear driveshaft angle... thats just my $0.02 worth...

 

Ok, it is my daily driver and there will be only occasional offroadin nothing major. Also I dont think my ball joints have ever been done and i just hit 100k so its probally time for some new ones anyway. O and also i plan to do a body lift in the future. will i be able to fit 32's on my stock wheels with very little or no trimming.

 

you can fit 32's on stock wheels, but I wouldn't do it.. They will look kinda funny with a 11.5" tire on a 7" rim.. kinda like a big donut..lol id get wider rims if I were you, but thats just my opinion. 32's wont fit with just 2 inches of lift without massive trimming. You will need a body lift, suspension lift and a bit of trimming to do 32's..

 

How can the lift affect the rear driveshaft, but not the front one? No it doesn't move the differential, but it does move the other end of the driveshaft, which still increases the angle, which is bad.

 

the kit doesnt have anything to do with the front driveshaft really, the kit doesnt relocate the front differential so the angle would be the same. and i dont understand how it moves the other end of the driveshaft? because its not relocating the tcase.

 

Well...just like it effects the rear drive shaft angle...You're lifting the vehicle, without lifting the differentials. The T-case moves with the vehicle correct? This would increase the pinion angles for both axles on a 4x4. We now know he's driving a 4x2, so this is all irrelevant to the OP, but should still be cleared up.

The reason the SL6 and TM5 kits relocate the front differential is to correct the poor pinion angle because of the lift

 

you are right, the t-case moves with the vehicle, but so does the front differential with a 2 inch lift. It is a glorified t-bar crank. The rear diff does not move with the vehicle, it is spaced with rear shackles. The only way to change the front driveshaft angle is to drop the front diff. A 2 inch lift does not drop the front diff. You have to go 5-6 inches before you get diff drop brackets.

the t-case desn't moveneither does the front diff, keeping the front driveshaft (which connects the t-case and front diff) at the stock location, therefore keeping it at stock angles. The rear axle lowers but the t-case and tranny stays up against the body/frame, changing the rear driveshaft angle. This is ONLY on the 2 inch lift! The 5-6 inch lifts have to lower the front diff, because it is impossible to crank the t-bars 6 inches, so the diff has to be lowered.. You IFS Front diff is not attached to the wheels and attached to the body by springs (like the rear). The front diff is attached to the frame and your cv's power the front wheels. With a 2 inch lift there is no modification to the tranny, t-case, or front diff. They stay in stock locations, not changing the front driveshaft angle. The rear diff is spaced 2 inches away from the body by shackles, creating a steeper driveshaft angle. Ifs-10 blazers had SFA's a 2 inch lift would change the front driveshaft angle, they dont though so it doesnt.

keep in mind that the 2 inch lift is a glorified t-bar crank! Wolfpack, did you have to move your front diff in order to crank your t-bars? no. Meaning the only shaft angle you changed was your cv-shafts......

 

Good point though with the shackles, I didn't think about it that way.

I guess I just keep getting stuck on how the bodys going up, but it doesnt affect anything. So are you saying when I crank the t-bar, the front suspension is flexed out, lifting the body up. Then the CVs adjust for that downwards flex, putting them at a steeper angle right? But the front diff didn't move!

I think I've got it now...sorry for the confusion. Thanks for stickin with me a_tack