How to I know if I cranked my t-bar to much?
#1
How to I know if I cranked my t-bar to much?
I have 31x10.5x15 tires installed rear lift shackles.
Any easy way knowing if I went to far, the driver side I screwed the bolt all the way in but not on the passenger side.
Could someone do a top of rim to fender measurement with 15in rims and 31s?
Thanks
Pics!
Any easy way knowing if I went to far, the driver side I screwed the bolt all the way in but not on the passenger side.
Could someone do a top of rim to fender measurement with 15in rims and 31s?
Thanks
Pics!
Last edited by Karcinagin; 04-09-2013 at 05:15 PM.
#2
Looks ok from the pics my blazer sits just as high, you may have a sagging torsion bar on your drivers side causing you to have to put more turns to get the same lift. Shouldn't hurt anything my passengers is little more than my drivers is. Mine sits 20 1/2" from center of hub to top of fender and i only rub on my frame at full lock which is rare. Hope this helps
#4
I have 30 x 9.5s on my '02 Crew Cab cranked up 1 1/2". Mine measures 19" from center hub to bottom of wheel well.
#6
I will check it out thanks for the help. I was think it may be to far being when i go down a bump in the road its a hard landing like the suspension did not extend down at all.
I already replace the ball joints with Moog
I already replace the ball joints with Moog
#8
Torsion bars adjust front chassis ride height, that's what you need to be concerned with. Body height will change as a result of adjusting chassis ride height. When you adjust the torsion bars to make the body level, you're compensating for squashed body mounts and misalignment of body parts. Torsion bars are computer picked when the vehicle is on the assembly line, according to the options the vehicle is being equipped with. Each bar has a weight range that it is designed to operate within. Increasing chassis ride height out of factory spec puts added stress on the bars as well as steering and suspension parts. Too much stress and things will break. Hate to see you ruin those new Moog ball joints
Here's how to tell if you've got it up too high:
Front chassis ride height is the vertical distance between the lowest, most inboard point, of the steering knuckle, to the center of the lower control arm pivot bolt.
1996 & newer, measurements must be taken with the vehicle on a level surface, wheels on the ground:
4WD(except ZR2) = 4.6” to 5.0” (4.8” is preferred)
4WD ZR2 = 4.6” to 5.2” (4.9” is preferred)
Additional information available here: http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_..._propshaft.htm
Here's how to tell if you've got it up too high:
Front chassis ride height is the vertical distance between the lowest, most inboard point, of the steering knuckle, to the center of the lower control arm pivot bolt.
1996 & newer, measurements must be taken with the vehicle on a level surface, wheels on the ground:
4WD(except ZR2) = 4.6” to 5.0” (4.8” is preferred)
4WD ZR2 = 4.6” to 5.2” (4.9” is preferred)
Additional information available here: http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_..._propshaft.htm
Last edited by Captain Hook; 04-12-2013 at 08:42 PM. Reason: additional information
#9
Wow thanks for the help, and really I did not notice a ride difference with lifting, but with the new tires I did. The only bump that gets a bit rough on my daily drive is like a 2-3 in drop in the road and the front just feels stiff going down that.
#10
It feels stiff due to the torsion bars trying to create lift beyond what they're designed for. When you increase ride height, you are twisting the torsion bars. To give you an idea of what's happening.... hold a pencil on each end, now twist it in opposite directions. The pencil will handle it for a bit, but keep twisting