2004 Blazer - Intermittent no crank
#1
10-14-2018, 08:56 PM
2004 Blazer - Intermittent no crank
Hi all, I have a 2004 Blazer with 168k. Recently it has been suffering from a no start no crank situation. 95% of the time it happens when the truck is warm or hot but only once when stone cold. The security light comes on and turns off as it should but I’ll turn the key and nothing.
the headlights will not work when this happens, the high beam indicator light will be illuminated on the dash and all the other lights will function as usual. Radio plays, HVAC works, locks and windows are all good but not able to turn on headlights, fog lights or high beams. The parking lights will be illuminated, however.
Connections to the battery are good, the starter’s connections are clean and the starter is brand new. I replaced the ignition switch under the dash and the starter relay. The starter relay has power coming from the constant feed and the ignition switch feed when I turn the key.
Today I cleaned the connections for the little ground wires from the battery and replaced the broken ground from the hood to the firewall. It started fine but under a heavy electrical load it stalled. Usually the gauge inside reads about 17.5 but today it was around 14 when it stalled. It will start right up but I’m thinking the voltage regulator could be shot but that doesn’t have much to do with starting as it maintains the battery when running. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
the headlights will not work when this happens, the high beam indicator light will be illuminated on the dash and all the other lights will function as usual. Radio plays, HVAC works, locks and windows are all good but not able to turn on headlights, fog lights or high beams. The parking lights will be illuminated, however.
Connections to the battery are good, the starter’s connections are clean and the starter is brand new. I replaced the ignition switch under the dash and the starter relay. The starter relay has power coming from the constant feed and the ignition switch feed when I turn the key.
Today I cleaned the connections for the little ground wires from the battery and replaced the broken ground from the hood to the firewall. It started fine but under a heavy electrical load it stalled. Usually the gauge inside reads about 17.5 but today it was around 14 when it stalled. It will start right up but I’m thinking the voltage regulator could be shot but that doesn’t have much to do with starting as it maintains the battery when running. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
#4
10-15-2018, 06:57 AM
Time to break out the multimeter and dig into the wiring diagrams. There isn't a whole lot of things to check out in the start circuit.
The passlock system does not inhibit starter functionality. If it were responsible for a no-start condition, the engine would turn over and actually start only to shutdown shortly after it fired up.
From my experience, an intermittent no crank issue typically ends up being the starter itself, but you still should test the start circuit responsible for engaging the starter solenoid as even a weak starter relay could cause the condition. I have also seen issues with the terminals in the underhood fuse block causing intermittent conditions; either the terminals at the individual fuses/relays as well as where the main harnesses connect to the underside of the fuse box.
I assume you have already verified that your battery is healthy via a load test. Your noted system voltages are quite high and could possibly harm the battery, but if the battery checks out OK, it likely isn't a concern for the intermittent no-crank.
The passlock system does not inhibit starter functionality. If it were responsible for a no-start condition, the engine would turn over and actually start only to shutdown shortly after it fired up.
From my experience, an intermittent no crank issue typically ends up being the starter itself, but you still should test the start circuit responsible for engaging the starter solenoid as even a weak starter relay could cause the condition. I have also seen issues with the terminals in the underhood fuse block causing intermittent conditions; either the terminals at the individual fuses/relays as well as where the main harnesses connect to the underside of the fuse box.
I assume you have already verified that your battery is healthy via a load test. Your noted system voltages are quite high and could possibly harm the battery, but if the battery checks out OK, it likely isn't a concern for the intermittent no-crank.
#5
10-15-2018, 07:21 AM
Time to break out the multimeter and dig into the wiring diagrams. There isn't a whole lot of things to check out in the start circuit.
The passlock system does not inhibit starter functionality. If it were responsible for a no-start condition, the engine would turn over and actually start only to shutdown shortly after it fired up.
From my experience, an intermittent no crank issue typically ends up being the starter itself, but you still should test the start circuit responsible for engaging the starter solenoid as even a weak starter relay could cause the condition. I have also seen issues with the terminals in the underhood fuse block causing intermittent conditions; either the terminals at the individual fuses/relays as well as where the main harnesses connect to the underside of the fuse box.
I assume you have already verified that your battery is healthy via a load test. Your noted system voltages are quite high and could possibly harm the battery, but if the battery checks out OK, it likely isn't a concern for the intermittent no-crank.
The passlock system does not inhibit starter functionality. If it were responsible for a no-start condition, the engine would turn over and actually start only to shutdown shortly after it fired up.
From my experience, an intermittent no crank issue typically ends up being the starter itself, but you still should test the start circuit responsible for engaging the starter solenoid as even a weak starter relay could cause the condition. I have also seen issues with the terminals in the underhood fuse block causing intermittent conditions; either the terminals at the individual fuses/relays as well as where the main harnesses connect to the underside of the fuse box.
I assume you have already verified that your battery is healthy via a load test. Your noted system voltages are quite high and could possibly harm the battery, but if the battery checks out OK, it likely isn't a concern for the intermittent no-crank.
Any idea where where I can find the wiring diagrams?
#6
10-15-2018, 06:07 PM
So, it happened again tonight when I was at the store without any of my tools. I banged on the starter and it cranked right up. Has anyone ever gone through 2 starters after the original finally went? I had one put on in September of this year and again last week. I had 12v to it when I did a test earlier today. Wish I could have gotten some readings at the store...
#7
10-15-2018, 08:30 PM
If hitting the starter caused it to start working again, then it is VERY likely that the starter solenoid has gotten weak on your newly installed starter. Sucks, but that pretty much boils down to the starter being at fault and not something further up the chain of command. You could try swapping just the solenoid, but that pretty much requires removing the starter and if it is still under warranty, you're only going to be out your time to get it swapped out.
#8
10-16-2018, 06:25 PM
So I’ve got power from the ignition switch to the relay then there is a disconnect between the relay and the starter. Is there anything stopping me from just running a new wire from the relay to the switched portion of the starter?
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