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Lighting & ElectricalPost your lighting and chassis/engine electrical questions here. Any audio/video questions should be posted in the 'Audio/Video Electronics' section.
Gotcha, to be clear, ima put a fused ground shot on pin 'b' at connector 6, and that should move the needle.
i can pull the cluster (again) and read those pins w/key on.
At the ecm. The 4 diff color bundles going i/o of ecm... mine were never labeled. Would you have that layout?
please and thank you
Without having my eyes on it, it looks like do "B" and "K" (with connector connected in its normal state). Looks like "B" is for illum, "K" is gauge. I'd try them separately, then maybe run two jumpers to Battery(-) and do both "B" and "K". Can't say for certain w/o seeing it. However, I notice on connector one side of "K" is 150, the other side is 151. You might find two wires on one side of connector with a short one jumping from "K" to "B"?
For your VCM connectors, need to know if it is from A/T or M/T; with or without A/C (originally, before you built it into a kick-*** truck ).
Thanx.. its a 97 gmc jimmy slt 4dr 4x4. Automatic transmission and floor shift, ive found thats a deciding factor in buying instrument cluster. I put the rear floor pan in from the jimmy so i could have fold down rear seats Firewall from jimmy helped setting body to the frame as gm did it Headliner and rear air from an escalade, on the right, tools, jack and custom jumper cables on left 95 s10 blazer w/97 harness, etc Pre wedding pic Ecm on the left, had to manipulate both 54 inner fenders for abs and other stuff
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I used everything 97 pcm, harnesses. Modules. Abs. Tank, evap systems, new lines of course, and a 2000 Escalade headliner with all of the a/c, compressor, lines, rear unit.
95 blazer plastic and seats. No electronics used from 95 model. It had different intake.
As you are an electrician, take a look at below and see if it seems like a direction you might want to go:
Went thru the schematic trying to find the easiest place to put a temporary fused ground jumper wire before taking anything apart to see if you have a ground problem. There are also grounds at the back of the truck in case it's a sender problem, but since you are having a cluster problem also, went that direction first.
The ground I'm referring to goes thru a couple splices in the passenger compartment and then goes to a roundish connector above the brake booster in the engine compartment (#6 in the image). You could first disconnect that and look for any green crusties.
If connector looks good, reconnect it and I would try backprobing pin "B" (circuit #150) in the connector with a T-pin (place pin carefully) and a fused jumper wire to a good ground (personally I would use a long wire all the way to Battery(-) post for this test). You could also shave some insulation off #150 wire to connect jumper wire, but insure you seal it very well with liquid tape. I don't like to do that unless absolutely necessary.
If no change, grounding problem could mean taking some interior apart, but you've knocked out where it isn't.
Also note this is a '97 Blazer manual and is a reference. If you don't have a Jimmy manual, go to Alldata.com and buy an online subscription (they have easier wiring diagrams than a manual) for your truck to insure circuits and pins in the connector are the same. I think they are, but I wouldn't swear to it. I suggest using manual/schematics for your specific truck, just in case.
Note: The top part of the page for the connector is for a 2.2L, ignore that. If you want the rest for the 4.3, I can post that.
Can you please tell me what the s110 wire should be connected to on engine side? I got given a 97 blazer at 4x4 4.3 with no power at dash so I'm trying to trace .. I'm having problems determining what should be factory vs what has been altered.
As you are an electrician, take a look at below and see if it seems like a direction you might want to go:
Went thru the schematic trying to find the easiest place to put a temporary fused ground jumper wire before taking anything apart to see if you have a ground problem. There are also grounds at the back of the truck in case it's a sender problem, but since you are having a cluster problem also, went that direction first.
The ground I'm referring to goes thru a couple splices in the passenger compartment and then goes to a roundish connector above the brake booster in the engine compartment (#6 in the image). You could first disconnect that and look for any green crusties.
If connector looks good, reconnect it and I would try backprobing pin "B" (circuit #150) in the connector with a T-pin (place pin carefully) and a fused jumper wire to a good ground (personally I would use a long wire all the way to Battery(-) post for this test). You could also shave some insulation off #150 wire to connect jumper wire, but insure you seal it very well with liquid tape. I don't like to do that unless absolutely necessary.
If no change, grounding problem could mean taking some interior apart, but you've knocked out where it isn't.
Also note this is a '97 Blazer manual and is a reference. If you don't have a Jimmy manual, go to Alldata.com and buy an online subscription (they have easier wiring diagrams than a manual) for your truck to insure circuits and pins in the connector are the same. I think they are, but I wouldn't swear to it. I suggest using manual/schematics for your specific truck, just in case.
Note: The top part of the page for the connector is for a 2.2L, ignore that. If you want the rest for the 4.3, I can post that.
He told me he couldn't remember if it hooked right to alternator at the positive or not .
).
