Dash lights going on and off?
#1
Starting Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Glendale, CA
Posts: 195

I have my brake and ABS lights going on and off randomly.
I also have the airbag light go off and on.
This occurs very randomly and the only thing ive noticed is that during the cold times the lights are off more than on.
I am not sure if these are all caused by a single thing and require one fix or each light has its own fix.
I would like to know more about this and would like to know how you got these fixed if any of u had a similar problem.
2001 Chevy blazer LT
Thank you
I also have the airbag light go off and on.
This occurs very randomly and the only thing ive noticed is that during the cold times the lights are off more than on.
I am not sure if these are all caused by a single thing and require one fix or each light has its own fix.
I would like to know more about this and would like to know how you got these fixed if any of u had a similar problem.
2001 Chevy blazer LT
Thank you
#2
Could be poor solder joints on the instrument cluster circuit board. The connector for the cluster plugs in vertical, about an inch below the instrument panel pad, directly above the center of the cluster. When the lights are being screwy, smack the dash above the cluster with an open hand. If the lights flicker, that's most likely what's going on.
The cluster must be removed from the vehicle and disassembled. Remove the printed circuit board and repair the solder joints. There is a 24 pin connector and each solder joint should be re-flowed. If you need more solder, use 60/40 lead/tin rosin core solder only, (available at Radio Shack) and a low wattage soldering pencil.
The cluster must be removed from the vehicle and disassembled. Remove the printed circuit board and repair the solder joints. There is a 24 pin connector and each solder joint should be re-flowed. If you need more solder, use 60/40 lead/tin rosin core solder only, (available at Radio Shack) and a low wattage soldering pencil.
#4
Tilt the column all the way down and pull the shifter all the way down. You'll need to have the key in and in the 'run' position to do this as well as have the truck on a level surface with wheel chocks preventing any movement of the vehicle.
#5
Starting Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Glendale, CA
Posts: 195

Ok I removed and disassembled the instrument cluster. I am pretty confused at which part needs to be soldered so hoping for some visual guide I linked pictures of the thing.
http://i57.tinypic.com/ilg9pw.jpg
http://oi58.tinypic.com/2s6twl4.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/10zs380.jpg
http://i57.tinypic.com/ilg9pw.jpg
http://oi58.tinypic.com/2s6twl4.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/10zs380.jpg
#6
The last image, the close up of the back side of the board. Each one of the 24 solder joints. Looks like a few are cracked. Might need a magnifying glass to look even closer, but those are the ones.
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