electrical..possible battery?
#11
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That's the passlock sensor. It should fit up into a cavity near the ignition lock cylinder.
#12
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
found it
question though.. would the battery have anything to do with the ignition switch power at all?
I ask because my battery is dead again, I threw a almost brand new battery in there and it died over night after i replaced my ignition switch.
So this brings me down to it has to be something in the wiring somewhere. Is there a schematic for just the wiring to and from the battery? Such as what all gets power from the battery and what doesn't so I can begin to trouble shoot the wiring problem. I highly doubt that I got 2 faulty ign switches. So im going to rule that out for now but its going tostay in the back of my mind.
On a side note-I can remove and put a ign switch in my sleep now. Got the new done in a little over 45 minutes. Im getting good at it
![Smile](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
question though.. would the battery have anything to do with the ignition switch power at all?
I ask because my battery is dead again, I threw a almost brand new battery in there and it died over night after i replaced my ignition switch.
So this brings me down to it has to be something in the wiring somewhere. Is there a schematic for just the wiring to and from the battery? Such as what all gets power from the battery and what doesn't so I can begin to trouble shoot the wiring problem. I highly doubt that I got 2 faulty ign switches. So im going to rule that out for now but its going tostay in the back of my mind.
On a side note-I can remove and put a ign switch in my sleep now. Got the new done in a little over 45 minutes. Im getting good at it
![Icon Couchhide](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_couchhide.gif)
#13
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If the ignition switch is installed with the gear a tooth off, you could be leaving circuits active that normally wouldn't be. Do all of the positions of the key work as intended?
#14
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
After you check for Ign sw being tooth off...
NOW is when a test light comes in handiest. START with disconnecting batt positive and inserting test light between batt and terminal end. The drain should light the light. A very dull glow does not mean it's lit. There is a little current draw at all times, so if dull glow then test with meter in amp position, normal would be less than 50 ma {.050 a}. If lite is bright you could be drawing ten amps or more, not good idea to test in amps position.
Then follow each power lead to its destination unhook and test there.
Suggest starting with Alt. Occasionally a rectifier diode will fail with a high resistance short - usual power diode fail mode is short, then open due to burn out.- Since there are multiple diodes in parallel you probably wouldnt see much change in how it charges.
If no drain there, move to main distribution fuse block. {suggest temp unhook batt neg while taking that loose, then reconnect neg to test.} If drain is there, then reconnect and pull fuses and relays one at a time and probe across them.
Or if it takes overnight to run battery down, -remember ten amps or more will either blow meter fuse or the meter itself- hook meter in amp mode and pull fuses/relays one at a time.
If drain is not there, then that leaves the starter unless you have audio power takeoffs. Stranger things have happened than the power side of solenoid or starter having a high res short.
NOW is when a test light comes in handiest. START with disconnecting batt positive and inserting test light between batt and terminal end. The drain should light the light. A very dull glow does not mean it's lit. There is a little current draw at all times, so if dull glow then test with meter in amp position, normal would be less than 50 ma {.050 a}. If lite is bright you could be drawing ten amps or more, not good idea to test in amps position.
Then follow each power lead to its destination unhook and test there.
Suggest starting with Alt. Occasionally a rectifier diode will fail with a high resistance short - usual power diode fail mode is short, then open due to burn out.- Since there are multiple diodes in parallel you probably wouldnt see much change in how it charges.
If no drain there, move to main distribution fuse block. {suggest temp unhook batt neg while taking that loose, then reconnect neg to test.} If drain is there, then reconnect and pull fuses and relays one at a time and probe across them.
Or if it takes overnight to run battery down, -remember ten amps or more will either blow meter fuse or the meter itself- hook meter in amp mode and pull fuses/relays one at a time.
If drain is not there, then that leaves the starter unless you have audio power takeoffs. Stranger things have happened than the power side of solenoid or starter having a high res short.
Last edited by pettyfog; 09-14-2011 at 09:43 AM.
#15
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thats what i first thought, maybe I had it a tooth off since ive read on here many times about that being a problem. But i checked and everything and each key spot worked as intended.
Diodes and rectifiers.. sounds all kinds of complicated and its definitely over my head. I'm man enough to admit im dumber then goose shyt when it comes to that stuff. Ill dig up a schematic from on here to help me out with that part.
What is a audio power take-off?
Diodes and rectifiers.. sounds all kinds of complicated and its definitely over my head. I'm man enough to admit im dumber then goose shyt when it comes to that stuff. Ill dig up a schematic from on here to help me out with that part.
What is a audio power take-off?
#16
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That was just technical explanation detail. You're following and testing each power lead from the battery, disconnect and test with light between the end and the terminal.
You probably dont need a schematic, until and unless it's in the fused harnesses.
If you dont understand what I'm trying to get you to do, just remove the pos batt cable and put one light lead on the battery post and one on the cable with the headlights on. Works like that.
You probably dont need a schematic, until and unless it's in the fused harnesses.
If you dont understand what I'm trying to get you to do, just remove the pos batt cable and put one light lead on the battery post and one on the cable with the headlights on. Works like that.
#17
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ohhhhh okay thats more my speed. All that technical talk makes me confused.
Alright im going to be doing that today then. Thanks
Alright im going to be doing that today then. Thanks
![Smile](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#18
![Default](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Quick update.. I did the electric tests and it all seemed fine. Had my brother drive down here and double check for me.. that cost me more then I thought. He said it was all fine. Im at a complete loss with her this time. Had the "talk" with her. Cried, cried more and finally had to put her down. Have her up in CL for no less then 24 hours and already got 3 people coming to look at her tomorrow.
Im gonna miss her. Sad sad day..
On the bright side though I found another blazer a 03 on CL for 2500 or B.O. i think I might go by and take a look at that :P (Wow that makes me sound like a *****...)
Im gonna miss her. Sad sad day..
On the bright side though I found another blazer a 03 on CL for 2500 or B.O. i think I might go by and take a look at that :P (Wow that makes me sound like a *****...)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cloudchaos
Lighting & Electrical
8
02-27-2013 10:59 AM
red98grandamse
Steering, Suspension & Drivetrain
4
02-24-2012 06:39 PM
corner27
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
1
10-27-2010 05:44 PM