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Headlights not bright enough!!!

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  #11  
Old 01-25-2013, 09:02 PM
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Ew you actually bought those . No wonder they are terrible.

What a relay does is pull power straight from the battery to make them brighter and protect your trucks harness from melting with higher wattage bulbs.
 
  #12  
Old 01-25-2013, 09:06 PM
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Yeah I did... I figured they would be pretty bad, but I got desparate. Where can I order good ones and where can I get a good harness and does the harness still tie into the stock switch on my dash?
 
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:10 PM
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yep its all plug and play. I ordered my Euros from this guy.

eBay My World - rimiinc

and you can get the relay harness on lmc truck.
 
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:14 PM
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These ones look like the right kind? I dont want to screw this up again. Im getting tired of messing with it.

165mm H4656 H4666 H4 Euro Headlights with City Lights | eBay
 
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:22 PM
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Yep those are them. IF you check my build thread I have before and after pictures.

MY lights are not exactly Road legal Because I had 90/100 watts bulbs. and the relays make them 110/130 watts. The Pictures dont do justice But boy I notice the difference between my dads s10 pickup sealed beams and my blazers lights. No one complains that my lights are to bright on low beams and I never got pulled over for them. I think the Lowbeam cutoff helps to prevent blinding.

MY high beams are really bright tho and people dont like them very much.

I plan on upgrading my Dads s10 pickup and my Plow lights on my k1500 Someday.
 
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:22 PM
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amd the lmc harness says its not for use with running lights. i have those.
 
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:23 PM
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The factory wireing is tiny 16 gauge that gets power from the fuse block (shared with the rest of the truck and just about undersized for that) sends it through the switch (also a current limit) then sends it to the bulbs. With the factory setup if you figure in length and voltage drop the wire size should be about 8 gauge. I'm an electrican and can do the actual figures if needed.

With a relay kit the bulbs pull power directly from the battery with at least 12 gauge (I build my own and use 10 gauge). The relay is the switch under the hood in the power wire, the switch on the dash is only used to turn the relay on and off. With a relay you can go as small as 24 gauge as switch wires. I actuall use phone cable (24 gauge) to switch my relays for my 100 watt offroad lights but those are powered with 8 gauge wire.

My h4 lens are ebay lens. I have them in both my trucks and the blazers are almost 6 years old with no problems. I run piaa hyper whites in the blazer (got them for a good price) but run silverstars in my truck. Can't tell the difference in the 2 and dang sure won't be paying what most places ask for piaas when they go.
 
  #18  
Old 01-25-2013, 09:28 PM
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So when I go to install it, where is the route the wire runs? Is it just battery-bulbs? Im ordering the buckets now.
 
  #19  
Old 01-25-2013, 09:29 PM
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I have the ebay crystal clear h4 lens in mine. I didn't pay over $30 shipped for either set and they both have glass lens. They are however fiber-plastic backed but no problems yet knock on wood.
 
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Dolanjohn1990
So when I go to install it, where is the route the wire runs? Is it just battery-bulbs? Im ordering the buckets now.

If you get the plug and play harness from LMC then most of those I've seen run under the core support ziptied up. The factory female plugs for the headlights plug into male connectors for the switch wires. The relays mount on the inner fender or core support by the battery. I've never used one nor ran one in a 2nd gen so can't tell ya much more. When I done mine I ripped the old wires out of the factory loom and ran the new inside that.
 

Last edited by neo71665; 01-25-2013 at 09:36 PM.


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