i have a 01 chevy blazer 4dr and i was curious how many ampp does it put out at idle and how many while driving if there is a difference.

 

Max output should be 105A (could be 100A if you have the smaller alt - your RPO codes should tell you which one). As far as at idle vs at speed, I do not know how they are rated.

And one thread is enough. Double Posting is against forum rules. If you think you may have posted in the wrong section, a member of the staff can and will move it for you.

*Moving to Audio/Visual*

 

the reason i ask is becuz i have a 1000w rms audio system and im having issues with my sub it cuts off when i turn up the volume.i notice that it drops to 13.8v and when the music is off its at 14.3v.i do have the big three upgrade done with 1/0 gauge ofc power cable.

 

Double check your power wire running to you amp. I had this issue last year and it turned out the power wire connecting to the fuse in the engine bay was loose.

 

I will check that when I have a chance... All my grounds have good contacts to metal/chassis (sanded chassis before placing ground cable). Is the stock alternator good enough to power my thousand watts rms?

 

Could be due to your amp starving itself. My 1400.2 had (2) 30A fuses in it for each channel. I talked to a buddy of mine at the local Car Audio shop and he said "true" multi-channel amps will cut-out for whatever channel you pull the fuse at, i.e.-if you pull the RT channel fuse you'll only have sound coming from the LT channel. Cheaper amps will have multi-fuses but the power block is bypassed through each channel, i.e.-if you pull any fuse and leave one in you'll get full sound @ all speakers. This is a problem cause when you figure the power you can only factor in 1 of the fuses. Mine was rated @ 350Wx2@2ohms, but with only 1 "real" fuse i was getting closer to 175Wx2@2ohms. Don't know if any of this is correct but when I get the new amp (old one fried!) it had (2) 40A fuses @ true 2 channels. Hasn't done it since.

 

my kicker amp has 240A fuses, so what i pretty much need is alot more current and that is why my amp is starving? i have ofc 4 gage running from the battery (front) to the back to a distributor block and then 4AWG to each amp

 

your alt should be fine. fuse, wire gauge fine. do you have a cap at least
1 farad? or a optima yellow cap battery wired in paraalell with your main batt. with an isolation relay? the ALT. is more than likely fine. it can re-charge faster than you think. its your amp draw. and you dont need even 60 amps to see a diffrence in you vehicle. the 250 amp fuse is just for protection to your batt. so if you have a short you dont spew sulfuric acid all over. you dont have a "Overwhelming" system so I would go with some buffering in the power delivery. ie. cap, or switched batt.

I bet even a 1/2 farad cap would do you wonders. its like a resivor of power, it draws from the cap instead of your batt.

or your speakers are wired for a load the amp cant handle, not many amps can really handle a contunious 2ohm load, maybe for 5% of the duty cycle but not all the time. fooling the consumer saying it 2ohm rated.... for 5% of the time .........3 min. of every hour. if you have a dual 4ohm coil sub wired in parrellel its a 2 ohm load +/- 3ohm per waveleingth. for every 1 sec. your giving that amp anywhere between 5 ohms and a -1 ohm (direct short on voltage rails in amp) witch would result in the amp going into protect mode.