how many amps does a alt put out at idle
#1
how many amps does a alt put out at idle
i have a 01 chevy blazer 4dr and i was curious how many ampp does it put out at idle and how many while driving if there is a difference.
#2
Max output should be 105A (could be 100A if you have the smaller alt - your RPO codes should tell you which one). As far as at idle vs at speed, I do not know how they are rated.
And one thread is enough. Double Posting is against forum rules. If you think you may have posted in the wrong section, a member of the staff can and will move it for you.
*Moving to Audio/Visual*
And one thread is enough. Double Posting is against forum rules. If you think you may have posted in the wrong section, a member of the staff can and will move it for you.
*Moving to Audio/Visual*
#3
the reason i ask is becuz i have a 1000w rms audio system and im having issues with my sub it cuts off when i turn up the volume.i notice that it drops to 13.8v and when the music is off its at 14.3v.i do have the big three upgrade done with 1/0 gauge ofc power cable.
#4
Double check your power wire running to you amp. I had this issue last year and it turned out the power wire connecting to the fuse in the engine bay was loose.
#5
I will check that when I have a chance... All my grounds have good contacts to metal/chassis (sanded chassis before placing ground cable). Is the stock alternator good enough to power my thousand watts rms?
#6
Could be due to your amp starving itself. My 1400.2 had (2) 30A fuses in it for each channel. I talked to a buddy of mine at the local Car Audio shop and he said "true" multi-channel amps will cut-out for whatever channel you pull the fuse at, i.e.-if you pull the RT channel fuse you'll only have sound coming from the LT channel. Cheaper amps will have multi-fuses but the power block is bypassed through each channel, i.e.-if you pull any fuse and leave one in you'll get full sound @ all speakers. This is a problem cause when you figure the power you can only factor in 1 of the fuses. Mine was rated @ 350Wx2@2ohms, but with only 1 "real" fuse i was getting closer to 175Wx2@2ohms. Don't know if any of this is correct but when I get the new amp (old one fried!) it had (2) 40A fuses @ true 2 channels. Hasn't done it since.
#7
my kicker amp has 240A fuses, so what i pretty much need is alot more current and that is why my amp is starving? i have ofc 4 gage running from the battery (front) to the back to a distributor block and then 4AWG to each amp
#8
your alt should be fine. fuse, wire gauge fine. do you have a cap at least
1 farad? or a optima yellow cap battery wired in paraalell with your main batt. with an isolation relay? the ALT. is more than likely fine. it can re-charge faster than you think. its your amp draw. and you dont need even 60 amps to see a diffrence in you vehicle. the 250 amp fuse is just for protection to your batt. so if you have a short you dont spew sulfuric acid all over. you dont have a "Overwhelming" system so I would go with some buffering in the power delivery. ie. cap, or switched batt.
I bet even a 1/2 farad cap would do you wonders. its like a resivor of power, it draws from the cap instead of your batt.
or your speakers are wired for a load the amp cant handle, not many amps can really handle a contunious 2ohm load, maybe for 5% of the duty cycle but not all the time. fooling the consumer saying it 2ohm rated.... for 5% of the time .........3 min. of every hour. if you have a dual 4ohm coil sub wired in parrellel its a 2 ohm load +/- 3ohm per waveleingth. for every 1 sec. your giving that amp anywhere between 5 ohms and a -1 ohm (direct short on voltage rails in amp) witch would result in the amp going into protect mode.
1 farad? or a optima yellow cap battery wired in paraalell with your main batt. with an isolation relay? the ALT. is more than likely fine. it can re-charge faster than you think. its your amp draw. and you dont need even 60 amps to see a diffrence in you vehicle. the 250 amp fuse is just for protection to your batt. so if you have a short you dont spew sulfuric acid all over. you dont have a "Overwhelming" system so I would go with some buffering in the power delivery. ie. cap, or switched batt.
I bet even a 1/2 farad cap would do you wonders. its like a resivor of power, it draws from the cap instead of your batt.
or your speakers are wired for a load the amp cant handle, not many amps can really handle a contunious 2ohm load, maybe for 5% of the duty cycle but not all the time. fooling the consumer saying it 2ohm rated.... for 5% of the time .........3 min. of every hour. if you have a dual 4ohm coil sub wired in parrellel its a 2 ohm load +/- 3ohm per waveleingth. for every 1 sec. your giving that amp anywhere between 5 ohms and a -1 ohm (direct short on voltage rails in amp) witch would result in the amp going into protect mode.
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