NEED Distibutor HELP.....NO SPARK
 

so real quick break down, i have a 99 chevy blazer 4.3l vortec vin w, blew the motor. rebuilt it
with vin w block from a 95...
so almost done but now have no spark
new cap new rotor new distributor new ignition new control module new crank position sensor new coil pack new plugs new wires.
I HAVE power to the distributorBUT NOT OUT OF IT checked and rechecked everything.. im at a loss and running out of possibilities any suggestions or ideas would be most appreciated i just want to get my girl back on the road.
if any one has a wiring diagram to and from the distributor would be awesome

(no the distributor is not backwards)(Security lock out has been disabled ad well)(all parts and instal procedures have been checked with multiple parts so they could be eliminated as a culprit)

could be a bad ground not sure how to test without a helper
or broken wire some where ?

i fell like im losing my mind im not sure where to go from here..

broken timing chain? does the rotor rotate with the cap off?

im just gonna throw out random stuff ive seen over the years, double check your crank sensor make sure it isnt broke, sometimes you have to shim them and if it hit the gear inside there it could have broke off. make sure the wires arent crap and has a good connection.

check codes maybe? if you did put the distributor in wrong it will come up a code instantly

not quite sure on the ground, i know the engine has to ground to the battery (which it should be since the starter works) and there is a ground wire that comes out of your main harness somewhere that bolts someone on the block. could have easily been overlooked with installation of the motor, ive done it before when putting a plow on someones truck, not quite sure where they are on s10s though.

The sensor in the distributor is the camshaft position sensor. It will not keep the engine from starting, even if it's unplugged.

Do you have battery voltage on both of the pink wires at the ignition coil and ignition module when the ignition is in the RUN position?

thank you guys so much, so here is the up date as of yesterday we started retesting all the relays everything is normal until we try turn it over when we start cranking we actually loose power.. so im really thinking its a ground issue or we have hot that is connecting some where it shouldn't.. i will also check my spacing on the cps just in case..

Once you get it running, you'll need to check and adjust camshaft retard and perform a crankshaft position sensor relearn. Both of these are required, (not just a recommendation). They are both done with a capable scan tool, (the el cheapo $400 or $500 jobbies can't do it). Camshaft retard adjustment aligns the camshaft position sensor with the camshaft, (among other things) and the crankshaft position sensor relearn calibrates the crankshaft position sensor with the tone ring inside the timing cover on the front of the crankshaft:
Attachment 32014

I had a PCM programmed by Wait4me and never did the crank relearn.

Runs great.

Does the 95 block have the same crank ring as the 99 engine the crank sensor picks up signals from? They may be different, don't remember what years are different off hand.

The plastic timing chain covers on these 'warp' over time from heat, and is why GM came out with the 'shim' kit to space the crank sensor out.

Camshaft sensor has nothing to do with a "no start". Not part of the initial ignition/starting of the engine.

There were reports of some distributors people were buying having the gear pinned on the bottom 180* off. Can't remember the brand that was manufacturing them wrong, try googling whatever brand distributor you bought and see if anything comes up.

When the PCM is programmed, (flashed) it does not include calibration data for the crankshaft position sensor as each individual engine is unique. The factory flash only includes a default value so the engine will start and the relearn can be performed. The relearn overwrites the default data and can only be done after the PCM is installed in the vehicle. Whenever the timing cover and or crankshaft position sensor is moved, removed, replaced, or disturbed in any way, the relearn must be performed. If it's not performed, the PCM uses data from the last relearn, which is incorrect. The engine will usually start and run, but injector timing, injector pulse width, ignition timing, cylinder misfire identification etc etc will all be incorrect....And it would run better if the relearn was performed;)QUOTE=Presti7;554601]Does the 95 block have the same crank ring as the 99 engine the crank sensor picks up signals from?[/QUOTE]If the engine is equipped with HEI, the pick up and tone ring are in the distributor. If it's equipped with EDI, it has a crankshaft position sensor and the tone ring on the crankshaft. Easy way to tell is if the plug wires plug into the distributor cap vertically, it has HEI. If they plug in horizontally, it has EDI. Correct, the engine will start and run even if the camshaft position sensor is unplugged. Camshaft position sensor data is mainly used for cylinder misfire detection, identification, ignition timing and to reduce/eliminate crossfire inside the distributor cap. If camshaft retard is adjusted incorrectly, all of which will be compromised. It needs to be checked and adjusted whenever the distributor is removed.

Did anyone try a good ground strap from the engine to a good place on the firewall?

i know i have a edi system, how much of a pain in the ass am i looking at if the new block was hei ?

kinda lost on that because they both are the same block and vin type
checked with several people including gm on that, and all said it would be no issue.

95 "W" block and 99 "W" block is not the deciding factor, HEI or EDI is what you're concerned with. HEI does not have a crankshaft position sensor, EDI does. There were very few late 95's that were equipped with EDI. If the 95 had EDI, no problem. If not, I'm not sure if the 95 (HEI crankshaft) will accept the tone ring, (never tried), you might check with an engine rebuilder on that. You could probably make the HEI distributor work but, it would require some primary ignition re-wiring and the 99 PCM could/would not adjust ignition timing.