NEED Distibutor HELP.....NO SPARK
 

so real quick break down, i have a 99 chevy blazer 4.3l vortec vin w, blew the motor. rebuilt it
with vin w block from a 95...
so almost done but now have no spark
new cap new rotor new distributor new ignition new control module new crank position sensor new coil pack new plugs new wires.
I HAVE power to the distributorBUT NOT OUT OF IT checked and rechecked everything.. im at a loss and running out of possibilities any suggestions or ideas would be most appreciated i just want to get my girl back on the road.
if any one has a wiring diagram to and from the distributor would be awesome

(no the distributor is not backwards)(Security lock out has been disabled ad well)(all parts and instal procedures have been checked with multiple parts so they could be eliminated as a culprit)

could be a bad ground not sure how to test without a helper
or broken wire some where ?

i fell like im losing my mind im not sure where to go from here..

broken timing chain? does the rotor rotate with the cap off?

im just gonna throw out random stuff ive seen over the years, double check your crank sensor make sure it isnt broke, sometimes you have to shim them and if it hit the gear inside there it could have broke off. make sure the wires arent crap and has a good connection.

check codes maybe? if you did put the distributor in wrong it will come up a code instantly

not quite sure on the ground, i know the engine has to ground to the battery (which it should be since the starter works) and there is a ground wire that comes out of your main harness somewhere that bolts someone on the block. could have easily been overlooked with installation of the motor, ive done it before when putting a plow on someones truck, not quite sure where they are on s10s though.

The sensor in the distributor is the camshaft position sensor. It will not keep the engine from starting, even if it's unplugged.

Do you have battery voltage on both of the pink wires at the ignition coil and ignition module when the ignition is in the RUN position?

thank you guys so much, so here is the up date as of yesterday we started retesting all the relays everything is normal until we try turn it over when we start cranking we actually loose power.. so im really thinking its a ground issue or we have hot that is connecting some where it shouldn't.. i will also check my spacing on the cps just in case..

Once you get it running, you'll need to check and adjust camshaft retard and perform a crankshaft position sensor relearn. Both of these are required, (not just a recommendation). They are both done with a capable scan tool, (the el cheapo $400 or $500 jobbies can't do it). Camshaft retard adjustment aligns the camshaft position sensor with the camshaft, (among other things) and the crankshaft position sensor relearn calibrates the crankshaft position sensor with the tone ring inside the timing cover on the front of the crankshaft:
Attachment 32014

I had a PCM programmed by Wait4me and never did the crank relearn.

Runs great.

Does the 95 block have the same crank ring as the 99 engine the crank sensor picks up signals from? They may be different, don't remember what years are different off hand.

The plastic timing chain covers on these 'warp' over time from heat, and is why GM came out with the 'shim' kit to space the crank sensor out.

Camshaft sensor has nothing to do with a "no start". Not part of the initial ignition/starting of the engine.

There were reports of some distributors people were buying having the gear pinned on the bottom 180* off. Can't remember the brand that was manufacturing them wrong, try googling whatever brand distributor you bought and see if anything comes up.

When the PCM is programmed, (flashed) it does not include calibration data for the crankshaft position sensor as each individual engine is unique. The factory flash only includes a default value so the engine will start and the relearn can be performed. The relearn overwrites the default data and can only be done after the PCM is installed in the vehicle. Whenever the timing cover and or crankshaft position sensor is moved, removed, replaced, or disturbed in any way, the relearn must be performed. If it's not performed, the PCM uses data from the last relearn, which is incorrect. The engine will usually start and run, but injector timing, injector pulse width, ignition timing, cylinder misfire identification etc etc will all be incorrect....And it would run better if the relearn was performed;)QUOTE=Presti7;554601]Does the 95 block have the same crank ring as the 99 engine the crank sensor picks up signals from?[/QUOTE]If the engine is equipped with HEI, the pick up and tone ring are in the distributor. If it's equipped with EDI, it has a crankshaft position sensor and the tone ring on the crankshaft. Easy way to tell is if the plug wires plug into the distributor cap vertically, it has HEI. If they plug in horizontally, it has EDI. Correct, the engine will start and run even if the camshaft position sensor is unplugged. Camshaft position sensor data is mainly used for cylinder misfire detection, identification, ignition timing and to reduce/eliminate crossfire inside the distributor cap. If camshaft retard is adjusted incorrectly, all of which will be compromised. It needs to be checked and adjusted whenever the distributor is removed.

Did anyone try a good ground strap from the engine to a good place on the firewall?

i know i have a edi system, how much of a pain in the ass am i looking at if the new block was hei ?

kinda lost on that because they both are the same block and vin type
checked with several people including gm on that, and all said it would be no issue.

95 "W" block and 99 "W" block is not the deciding factor, HEI or EDI is what you're concerned with. HEI does not have a crankshaft position sensor, EDI does. There were very few late 95's that were equipped with EDI. If the 95 had EDI, no problem. If not, I'm not sure if the 95 (HEI crankshaft) will accept the tone ring, (never tried), you might check with an engine rebuilder on that. You could probably make the HEI distributor work but, it would require some primary ignition re-wiring and the 99 PCM could/would not adjust ignition timing.

Captin Hook, deffinatley looking in to it more, but just off the top of my head if there was no tone ring wouldn't that in turn through a code for a bad crank position sensor as there would be nothing for it to read ? seems that if feasible installing a tone ring would be a better choice then rewiring the distributor ?

Good call! The PCM monitors the crankshaft position sensor all the time, even while cranking. It would definitely set a DTC without a tone ring. When you first got the 95 engine, did the plug wires attach to the distributor cap horizontal or vertical? And, did it have a crankshaft position sensor in the timing cover?

pretty sure its was a hei distributor but it was a short block so im not positive ,but definitely no crank position sensor.. on the old cover , we put a new timing chain/timing chain cover and new crank sensor in.. but im not getting a ckp code ? so but the more we talk about it the more im sure it was a hei. kinda lost on what my next step should be.. as far as what i can check and do on my own.

Since I'll be replacing my engine soon, I've been following this thread to enlighten me on the "relearn" Cpt Hook has mentioned so many times. I went to the autozone website and came upon this generic definition of the "Engine Control Computer":

"The engine control computers job as part of the ignition system is to use the signals that it receives from the camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor and the knock sensor to determine exactly when to command the ignition module to fire the ignition coil"

Though this is very generic, would the fundamentals be the same....meaning...suppose your crankshaft sensor is good to go and maybe the camshaft sensor is the one out of whack or not working? Thereby the ECM will not give the order to "fire"?

I really don't know anything when it comes to these sensors and the need to "relearn". Since your stuck, just thought another perspective might be helpful in someway.

The generic description is "mostly" accurate. The PCM uses crankshaft position sensor data to determine exactly where each piston is in it's cycle, (intake, compression, power or exhaust) in degrees of crankshaft rotation. The crankshaft position sensor, MAP, MAF, TPS, ECT, KS & IAT are all used in determining what amount of ignition advance should be applied. After gathering and processing all of the data, the PCM determines when to fire the ignition module, which in turn fires the ignition coil. The PCM uses camshaft position sensor data for detecting cylinder misfire and accurately identifying which cylinder(s) are misfiring, that's it. Provided camshaft retard is adjusted correctly, the engine will start and run normally even if the sensor is disconnected.

The crankshaft position sensor emits a magnetic field. It directs the field "in the general vicinity" of the tone ring on the crankshaft. There are 3 teeth on the tone ring, each tooth represents two cylinders, (two crankshaft revolutions required for all 6 cylinders to complete each of its 4 cycles). As the teeth on the tone ring pass through the magnetic field, the sensor sends a pulse to the PCM. Depending on each individual crank sensor, and how it is oriented in the timing cover, the magnetic field is not in the exact same position on each engine. During the relearn, the crankshaft position sensor "tells" the PCM exactly where the tone ring is in relationship with the field. Think of the relearn as establishing a "benchmark" from where all PCM calculations are based. If benchmark is not accurate, none of the commands from the PCM will be correct.... typical computer, feed it wrong information and you'll get wrong information out of it. New, remanufactured, reprogrammed, reflashed etc etc PCM's have a default value burned into the crankshaft relearn data file. The engine will at least start and run from this data, and sometimes they run pretty decent too, but, the data is not correct. During the relearn, the new data overwrites the default data and the sensor is synchronized with the crankshaft. Disconnecting the battery has no affect on the data, it remains there until the next relearn is performed.

This is why the relearn is mandatory if/when: the crank sensor or timing cover is moved, removed, replaced, or disturbed in anyway or, the PCM is replaced. If it's not done, the PCM will use the relearn data from the last relearn, which is now, incorrect data.

In post#5 there is an image of the tone ring, it's probably 4" or so in diameter: After the timing chain and gears are installed, the tone ring slides onto the crankshaft, then the timing cover is installed. Do you remember installing the tone ring?

Capt,
Where can I get the crankshaft position sensor relearn done?
I just put a 1999 4.3 in my 2000 but havent been able to get it started yet as soon as I get it started is when I get the "relearn" done?

The engine must be running. During the relearn, engine RPM is manually brought up to 4000, at that point, the scan tool takes over throttle control. Start to finish, the whole thing takes maybe 15 minutes, which includes 10 minutes to locate and connect the scan tool ;) Must be done with a capable scan tool, not necessarily a GM dealer, but they can also do it. Call around to some local shops and find one that has the equipment, and is familiar with the procedure.

Captin hook thank you so much man i cant begin to explain how much headache you saved me pulled the water pump timing cover sure as hell ho reluctor ring $13 through gm.. the 95 motor with a hei never had it.. but after much work putting everything back together she fired right up.. shes a little rough on the idle but we still need to go back through and check compression and valves but after the rebuild the sign of life is better then expected just need to finish the exhaust assembly as well but she should be back on the road sooner then later !!!!!!!!!!!!!

there is a work around on the relearn but gm here quoted me $85 to do it better to let gm do it better on the motor and gas mileage

Cool! Glad I could help. Get the relearn done, and as long as you're there, ask if they can check & adjust camshaft retard as well.

HEI to EDI conversion.
 

I know this threads old but I figure it would be best fr me to post here instead of having useful information in 2 places. I have a 95 s10 Zr2 manual trans. W vin engine code with side mount pugs on Dist.. Engine spun a bearing and i found a 1995 Automatic Blazer 4.3 W engine with top mount plugs on Dist.
After much confusion and days of reading I believe swapping the Reluctor wheel, timing cover with crank sensor, lower intake manifold and distributor from my old EDI engin on to the HEI this would be everything needed to essentially "convert" the donor top mount plug engine to the side mount application I need. Can anyone correct me if i missed anything?

covers.
 

BTW both engines have the plastic 6 bolt hole timing covers. Only other thing listed in a manual was 2 strut bosses added for transmission support. Anyone know where those can be located so I can try to verify a complete block match.