need help with the wiring!
 

Ok so I just got a 97 Blazer. It has every option minus the sunroof, including steering wheel controls for the radio. Someone before had cut the wiring harness for the radio. I went out one day to wire it back together, matching colors to colors. Well, when I got it wired up, I turned the switch on and nothing. Thats when I noticed I had no gauges except for oil pressure and battery gauge. Well I found out that if you move the radio wires, the gauges would work again. Then all of a sudden, they stopped. Now they will only work if you have the parking lights or headlights on. Once you shut them all off, the gauges stop working. And if you have the lights on and the gauges are working, if you turn the brightness dial all the way down, they stop working again. Its like they only get power when the gauges are lit up. I dont understand it at all. Oh, it has the 4.3 and thats they only issues it has. Starts right up and runs strong, no matter how the gauges are. Anyone out there know of where to check or whats going on? Im about to junk it and go back to MOPAR where I had no issues. And yes, its 4wd with keyless entry if that helps.

maybe its something with the ignition switch those things are connected to everything https://blazerforum.com/forum/articl...-switch-33465/

junk a Blazer to go back to Mopar??????? What you would rather replace transmissions than a wiring harness. Ill gladly take a rusty Chevy over some s'box Dodge

Sorry that wasnt ment to a jerk reply. Keyless entry vehicles usually have a theft lock out system that disable the radio and circuitry incase of theft (like someone would really steal a stock head unit) there are alot of systems that get tied into the power wires and illumination wires for the stereo. Since its a 97 you dont hafta deal with OnStar systems. Id try and see if you can unlock the delco II lock out system and see if that helps. If someone just hacked away at the wireharness they may have cut something you havent seen and/or broken another wire in the dash. luckily they are pretty easy to take the dashboard apart. harborfrieght has cheap but good multimeters for checking voltage and resistance. Again sorry for the previous reply but mopar blows. I spend more time under my brothers minivans (both dodge) than I do on top of my woman

Its all good man. Ive gottent the wiring issue fixed. Now Im working on the heat part and the 4wd. The heater not working I think is the blend air door cause the core is perfect and the tstat is great. It just blows cold air. And the 4wd i think is the deal under the battery tray cause the transfer case locks in, just not the front tires lol. And my 94 Dodge Dakota I traded for the Blazer had no issues at all. None. It has over 150,000 miles and ran like it did brand new. And my 03 Jeep grand Cherokee ran like a dream as well. Now Ive got 2 Chevys and Im not impressed with either of them lol

whats up out there?i have a 97 blazer ,i changed thewaterpump recently and had to remove the alternator to get it out. after putting everything back together,i have no juice anywhere in the veh. headlights,horn, gauges nothing. i had battery tested and replaced,alternator good. dont know what else to look for....also all fuses in panel good however no power there either. cables look good , removed and cleaned.

Welcome aboard.. BUT..
Post this in a new thread please. This aint yahoo answers where they want you to wade through mountains of crap.

https://blazerforum.com/forum/images...bits_start.gif Blazer Forum - Chevy Blazer Forums > Mechanical & Maintenance > Lighting & Electrical
clcik 'lighting and electrical then 'new thread'
We'll have you fixed quick if you have a meter or test light

I suspect you didnt follow the rule. Disconnect battery neg cable before doing anything.

Pettyfog, I noticed the procedure for replacing a PS pump also starts with disconnecting the battery. This is probably a dumb question, but why?

For the same reasons as above. Too easy to accidently short something out.

Now I work on some things without disconnecting the cable but anytime it involves loose wires or heavy awkward parts near the alternator, battery or starter I disconnect. OTOH, I wouldnt have any problem with changing the AC compressor while battery connected.
- But since that has been included in 'how-to' instructions, it has become a necessary caveat. If you DONT say that, then theoretically you could be held responsible for the reader's dumassity. Might even see:

PS: I also usually replace wall switches and outlets without shutting down the circuit breaker, so it's not like I'm safety anal. I dont recommend anyone do that... It's just that I know the risks.

Thanks for making that clear. This is off current topic onto another you raised - dumassity. I recently acquired a 96 Blazer which a lot of problems. The worst thing was damage to a door post. Or I should say damage to the door frame that the post was ripped out of. Getting at the wiring in there by removing the cover on the interior should be easier than having to repair the door frame damage.